According to the KZ1000-A1 owners manual and the Haynes workshop book, the fuses are 1 x 20 amp and 2 x 10 amp respectively. (25mm long) The 20 amp is in-line with the white wires. 1 x 10 amp fuse is in-line with the red/blue and brown/white wires. 1 x 10 amp fuse is in-line with blue and blue/white...

For the correct glass fuses try Vehicle Wiring Products based at 9 Buxton Court, Manners Industrial Estate, Ilkeston.
You need the 25mm long version in 20A and 10A.

Nick,

PM’d you regarding the spanner


Mick

Not sure if this spanner is of any use. (12-13mm)
It was originally part of a Z1000 toolkit.
The surface finish has few rust spots starting to appear, but the spanner faces have seen very little action. May be worth having it replated.

My first thoughts when removing the backplate was to check if it had any markings or stickers that would give any indications as to how it should be fitted. The only markings that I could see where a set of numbers which had been (lightly) stamped. This mark was on the inside as fitted originally, b...

I second that sentiment regarding the help from Zed1015. I was almost on the verge of removing the Dyna system from the bike and purchasing a new one to replace it, as I was unsure that the one fitted was correct for my bike. Following the advice from Zed1015 and flipping the backplate over solved a...

Glad to report that the bike runs really well after sorting the ignition timing. It feels so much more smoother and powerful. It is a pleasure to ride the bike. It did used to have a really poor pickup when pulling away in first gear, no such issues now! Will hopefully have a ride down to Matlock Ba...

Just started the bike after sorting out the timing.

It feels loads sharper and more responsive when blipping the throttle.

Will take it out for a run tomorrow and see how she performs. (as long as it is dry!)

I will post again after the run just to let everyone know how things went.

Guys, Firstly thanks for all the suggestions regarding this issue, most appreciated. I followed what Zed1015 advised regarding flipping over the backplate. I remove the pickups and flipped the backplate over, then reassembled the assembly back onto the bike. I set the slots bang in the middle of the...

Guys, I recently purchased an import KZ1000 which I am in the process of checking over for using the bike in the summer. The bike has been cosmetically upgraded to look like a U.K. spec bike, twin discs, long rear mudguard, correct grabrail etc. I have check the valve clearances, had to swap over a ...

I intend to remove the carbs from my Z1000 a1 to clean the pilot jet circuit and this seems the ideal time to replace the 40 year old inlet rubbers. Have any of the Forum members used the PMC alternative rubbers instead of the genuine Kawasaki parts? The PMC items are manufactured in Japan and are s...

PM sent.

Pair of rear footrest assemblies taken from a Z1000 a1. Brackets have been re-plated and finished with black passivate finish. Pins and washer have been zinc plated in silver. Price for the set £25 - this includes postage to U.K. mainland. Please pm if interested. D4524A7C-1CA2-44E6-AD23-77DC318F216...

I found this diagram very useful when reassembling the rear wheel of my Z1000 A1. No part numbers listed, but it clearly shows the various spacers etc.

Regarding the removal of the individual cables from a typical multi pin electrical connector. I had to do this when restoring my Suzuki GT750. If you look inside the body of the connector you can see the spade connectors, each spade has a tiny retaining ‘tang’ which protrudes up from the spade. If y...