When I have repaired these I leave the varnished factory joint at the coil and splice in staggered shrunk wrap soldered joints between the strap on the coil core and the grommet.
The wire I have used is normal 13awg with no problems and either re-use the original sleeve if possible or fit new.

Not needing the choke/starter circuit means they need to come down on the pilot/slow jet first (start at around 55). Just the oversize pilots could be the whole problem as overall fueling is a stack up of all the other fuel circuits and the pilots could be tipping it over the edge.. I'd also start w...

I use these. The Vtech is good for all the case joints, Cam end plugs , Alternator grommet etc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VT-157-Quality-V-Tech-Brand-Vital-Black-RTV-Silicone-Instant-Gasket-Maker-85gm/351211944681?hash=item51c5dcfae9:g:PiYAAAzyLv1Sv3C1 And the Graphogen for the cam shells, buckets,...

Looking for a stock GPZ1100 Unitrack /1100R Exhaust valve.. ( not stainless ).
Doesn't need to be usable, Just straight,
Just want it to make a valve pocket cutter..

The usual trick is to drill a small hole In the metal cap and use self tapping screw or similar to thread into the hole and pull out the cap with pliers or failing that use a small screw driver in the hole to lever it out.
Be careful not to damage the brass screw underneath when drilling.

They are a light press fit from the bottom. Stick them on the end of the needle jet tube with a bit of grease . Make sure they are square and push and turn the jet tube by hand so it screws in and simultaneously presses the jet home. Keep light pressure as you turn to take the load off the threads a...

Always used Neatsfoot oil myself for nourishing leather.

Thanks.
PM sent.

Perfect Al.
Thanks.
That'll do the job.
Let me know what you want for it.
Cheers.

Don't use a ball hone, you want a small 17mm brake cylinder hone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Brake-Cylinder-Hone-For-13-64-mm-Wheel-Tyre-Accessories-TNH315/352927163140?epid=1334760536&hash=item522c192304:g:O2AAAOSwCH9eF6aH For what it costs I would take it to an engineering shop/engine re-co...

Thanks Tim.
Seen that.
Wrong one though.

Yes! it can be honed in situ.
Is this new rods too or just bearings etc.

1975 Z1B motor I think.
Carbs should be 28mm pumpers for the US 1015c ltd.
These can be identified by only having the square pumper diaphragm operational.
The casting for the triangular one next to it should be unmachined with no cap.

The US ones were set at the factory (slightly lean to suit whatever altitude the bike was sold in) for emission regs and capped off to stop tampering.
Removing the caps should reveal the normal pilot screw and slot head.

Z900 etc 005 ignition advancer wanted.
Does not need to be complete.
I only need the actual bare backplate bit with the timing marks on without the cam, weights or springs etc.