You can just edit the first post and put Sold in the title.

Those ball hones are better for de-glazing than the 3 legged type and easier to use too. Much less chance of having a f*ck up. Every shop and engine builder has their own take on the finished grit but getting the cross hatch angle is more important. Once done, wash out the bores with soapy water not...

Getting the correct angle with drill powered stones can be tricky if you haven't done it before (and even when you have) You need an angle no steeper than 45 degrees which is achieved be controlling hone speed and stroke. For what it will cost for the hone and stones and then the chance of not getti...

No! not snapped rings. Just that the rings could have reduced tension and lost some of their spring due to being sat in the bores for so long and so won't seal as they should. £200 saved now "could" be £200 plus the cost of gaskets and time later on. As stated it's a 50/50 chance and you w...

You only hone if you are fitting new rings but you may be taking a gamble with the original rings after all that time even though they are in spec etc.
50/50 whether you pull it off.. Fingers crossed..
Cleaning with the process you describe won't be a problem..

With equidistant coils they go either way.
With tighter coils they go to the top.

Any light oil will do as a lubricant for cleaning out the threads.
As mentioned on the other thread a HSS tap will be more than enough to clear any old thread lock and even true the threads up..
I've done it countless times on these with no problem.

What i meant was is the bolt bottoming out on the cut threads due to being too long but obviously that is not the case. The cut threads in the crank only extend so far but can be cut further which i have done with a HSS tap in the past. As mentioned if it's just old Loctite then even a carbon tap sh...

Ok. That's a different set up to the earlier motors.
The groove extends to the bottom of the block and leaves a gap so that the rings can be pushed in with the liner fitted.
As you say you will have to get the 2mm section ones and try again.

Yes! as long as it's not aggressive / course grit.
You should mask the valve stems.

Just fit the liners first. I presume they are going back in their original block so should drop in flush. Oil tho 'O' rings and roll them up the spigot and work them into the gap with a small screw driver or similar. They don't need to be right up there below the surface. They will get pushed fully ...

Whereabouts have you fitted the 'O' rings ?
They shouldn't be in situ until the liners are in.
They simply roll up the liner spigot and sit in the shallow groove between the spigot and the bottom of the block.
A bit of oil helps them slide in.
Liners should be flush with the gasket face.

I've run normal HSS taps down the rotor thread to clean them out no problem. The material isn't that hard down the core and if you are just chasing the original thread then it should run through easily. Even though it's supposed to be the correct bolt i would check to see if it's bottoming out or th...

I've had V5's with either on . The one i've been running for 20 years is blank on the model type and just has Kawasaki as the make and the frame and engine numbers. If you are filling in the detail on a V5 application then you can put whatever you prefer. Z1000D1 is the official model designation fo...

Hi. The chokes will be bottoming out on their seats but they will certainly be leaking to some extent. They all are at 40 odd year old.. Apart from a visual there's no real way of checking unless you pull the carbs and apply a syringe of fuel to the brass pick up tube and see it leaks past the plung...