Looks like you have the wrong thrust washer on the damper side..
The plain one goes on the other side of the roller bearing next to the starter clutch and the one on the damper rubber side should be much thicker,have oil grooves and a tapered recess that faces the crank.

I am surprised people aren't falling over themselves for these, certainly made a difference to mine, a woefully neglected part. Thanks for the update Kev. The word is s.l.o.w.l.y creeping out and I've now done a couple of sets for ZPOWER who recognise the issue and have included my details on their...

Good to hear you got it sorted. It's the little things that can cause the most problems and have the largest effect. I was going to say that that the blue flame you mentioned is I presume from using a Gunson and whilst they are ok for getting the mix in the right area the results shouldn't be taken ...

My air correctors are for when using pods or open carbs etc so unless you have a very free flowing filter I will not recommend them. Put the needles back to stock. Check the plug colour on idle . To determine if you are rich or lean feather the choke when setting off and at crawling speed. If runnin...

Just aim to get all the vac readings as equal to each other as possible and then set the idle as close to 1000 rpm as you can .
Equal vac readings are more important than the actual value as throttle opening governs that.
Any specified hg reading will go out the window once the idle is set.

The Wiseco/MTC's currently use the same make rings and the code XA- XC etc denotes the type preceded by a number which indicate bore size etc. XA are thinner than the XC's. Other makes will use different rings with different thicknesses etc. You should be able to find rings once you know the groove ...

They look very much like Wiseco or MTC but have no markings so anyone's guess. C mark should denote the XC ring type used. Depending on the fit which varies wildly the liners shouldn't need much heat to move. I've never measured the temps but I usually either use a hot air gun/stripper until they pu...

Liners can easily be swapped.
Some light heat from a hot air gun or oven to warm the casting evenly will loosen them up enough to slide them out.
Do not cold press them out as it will loosen the fit.
Bores will need a hone and new rings at the minimum if the clearances are within spec.

You can either do it with the cam cover off so you can see the slack being taken up in the chain or get a 17mm spanner on the ign side crank nut and rock the crank whilst screwing in the adjusted by hand.
Whilst rocking the crank you will feel the slack being taken up.

Once the head is bolted down they will be pushed flush.
Especially after the first heat cycle and re-torque.

It's always the little things that cause to most problems.

The engine number really bears no relation to the size of the engine in a racing scenario except to denote which model of 900 or 1000 the cases initially originated. The lack of numbers isn't really a problem unless you are in it for the money and the reason for their absence is anyone's guess. If y...

I found this on ebay just now - this is exactly how it looks ..... Numbers have been removed. Only the early short number blocks were plain flat. The later, longer ones have a raised ridge (fence) around the edge of the block which has gone and it's also plain to see that the height of the block on...

rickm wrote:What actually comes with the CV carb kit ? i.e. jets, etc.
Thanks

Hi, Rick.
Just the 4 corrector jets and I can supply info for the recommended main jetting if needed .

Robw wrote:Hi, could i have a set please for set of 34 CV carbs on a gpz 1100b1?
Cheers Rob

Sent you a PM.