Good luck Graham. IMD do a good job. Gotta ask though who advised it needed hardened seats for unleaded use.? Unless the seats were knackered there was no need for replacements because hardened seats were already fitted from the factory and these engines were designed to run on unleaded from day on...

Z1streetfighter71 wrote:

zed1015 wrote:The KL250 pistons ARE stock Z1000 from the factory..

Ok while I known ART the stock pistons I’m not that green, my 77 came with pistons that had no markings on them and I still have them.

Both are correct for stock factory Z1000 pistons.

The KL250 pistons ARE stock Z1000 from the factory..

Easily found on ebay and google etc etc

Wemoto.
https://www.wemoto.com/bike/kawasaki/z/ ... rbon-brush
Ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386762631041 ... tem5a0cd96
ZPOWER
https://www.z-power.co.uk/gpz-air-coole ... brush-assy

The cam chain hasn't jumped a tooth or so on the crank when you rotated it with the tensioner removed has it ?
The symptoms you have are typical of that..

Had a little surprise carpal tunnel surgery opportunity 10 days ago due to an unexpected cancellation which stopped play for a while and then discovered that it had healed in record time when i removed the secondary dressing after a week and all five stitches were almost out of sight under the skin...

I've got both coils sitting on a felt strip to reduce vibration but maybe rubber strip would be more suitable. Anybody tried this, and if so what type of rubber/polymer did you use. . You don't need any sort of vibration insulation or dampening. Were the Dyna coils sitting clear of the frame bracke...

Gray17 wrote:Maybe silly question as im about to do this too, should you just re torque to original settings as is, or back each bolt one at a time a turn back then re torque to correct amount?
Thanks

Just retorque following the sequence in the manual.
No need to slacken the nuts first.

If your frame really is irrepairable ( Very unlikely ) then you either need another frame with V5 or do a neat job of stamping your numbers on a replacement frame and keep quiet about it. Your original frame will then need the numbers obliterating and either chucking in the scrap or used for donor p...

Hi Zed , I did swap over the left and right leads and plug caps, 1&4 still never got as hot. I will give that a try though Swapping the leads doesn't rule out the Dyna pick up but only the leads and caps. Same goes for the coils. The pick up is still tied to 1 and 4 unless you swap the Dyna tri...

With all the stuff you have swapped it's either the carbs or an iffy Dyna pick-up . Considering the fault affects 1 and 4 which is shared by the igniton it's unlikely to be the carbs. To check the 1-4 (left) pick-up just swap the Dyna signal wires to the coils and move the rotor 180 degrees on the a...

Re-torque the head when it has fully cooled overnight after the first start.

I'm not sure if its some form of optical illusion but, as Zed9 says the lower inlet cam shell appears distorted or not supported (can be seen in the first/top photo). It almost looks as tough some of the casting is missing? That's the shell location tab which prevents it from spinning in the journa...

Yes! J/GPZ 998cc/1089cc starters are all the same 4 brush type.

The head needs to come off and the valves need tipping at the very least. 0.30mm can be ground off the stem to get you in the 220 ish range but you will soon run out of adjustment and really need to be in the thicker end of the shim range which can be achieved by skimming the collets and retainers a...