I've just has a thought. Looking back in this thread , you said you had stripped the auto advancer unit and reassembled it , but noted ' the cam could fit either way" ( page 9 of this thread) I think it can make a difference, otherwise why would Kawasaki put marks on it to facilitate reassembly...

you can buy sheets of sticky-back closed-cell foam in various thicknesses - I've just bought a sheet of 3mm thick to fit between a rear light lens and the body of the rear light unit for my special build in progress. Being sticky backed, it will stay in place till you crimp it up I guess.

Lovely bikes, a credit to you and your dad. Welcome to the Club, a source of great information and useful hints and tips for Zeddists

I would look elsewhere and optimise everything else before lifting cylinders and barrels, committing to time off the road with summer coming on and incurring £££ for new gaskets etc. But that's my personal tuppenceworth

the shim isn't attached to the bucket and the bucket isn't attached to the valve, they just sit on each other. So the shim being able to spin doesn't mean you can assume the valve is perfect. No 3 compression without oil seems like an outlier - you said you struggled getting the rings into the bores...

the wired George mod melted my coils

10% variability between cylinders might be OK

the manual should tell you. 140-160 might be ball park figures. When my Zed needed a rebore the compressions were 85-120 ish. But it was BAD . I rode from my house to a friend in East Kilbride and it used £15 of petrol and £20 of oil.

see photo

check the springs on the autoadvancer aren't weak - if they are, so the engine is running on full advance even at low revs, this will cause low speed hesitancy and good high speed running. With a strobe , check the timing at idling speed, then open the throttle slowly while watching the marks. By 23...

you mentioned the rubber bung is an easy push fit. Try swopping the bungs around, and seeing which one pops out. If its still No 1 cylinder, then the problem is there, if that bung continues to pop out wherever you put it , throw it away and get a new one ( it may be so loose it's letting air by and...

I knew I needed one too for my special project I'm working on so I looked on ebay for other clutch covers with a filler neck that sticks out a bit. GSX550 seemed to fit the bill so I bought it complete with cap ( cheap as it was scuffed and cracked at 1 bolt hole) and I hacksawed out the filler neck...

is the cam timing a tooth out? If the inlet valve was still a bit open as the piston was rising, then you'd get increased inlet tract pressure and it might blow the bungs out. Easy to get it wrong, and the diagrams aren't that clear in the manual - the thing to remember is that ( with No 1 piston at...

I'm not clear yet. Has the ignition been fully excluded as the issue? ( ie swop the dyna pickup feeds, AND swop the plug caps - put 1+4 onto 2+3 and vice versa . It'll still run , but it tests the opposite half of the ignition system - if the pipes that run cool change over too, its an ignition issue.

thinking back to your stuck pilot jet , I have 2 suggestions Both unfortunately involve pulling the carbs off and separating the carbs ( be careful you don't drop the 2 ball bearings on the choke slider bar) Once you have a stripped down No. 3 carb body in your hand, drop it into boiling water for 5...