Can you enlighten me as I'm a bit confused....(Insert witty comment here) Is your engine based on the Z1000J? If so I thought the J and the B1/B21100s were 17mm wrist pins and it was only the Unitrack that had 18mm Wrist pins. As always I'm happy to be correct if I'm wrong. Gary Ad does say for GPZ...

If it's the unitrack head the valve angles are steeper too so need to watch the piston/valve clearances too.

It bolts straight on but you need an APE top idler tower or similar for the camchain and you will also lose 2 points of compression so will need to compensate for that.

marve114 wrote:Thank you z1bman

I did see these but I'm pretty sure the wrist pins are the wrong size for my engine

Yes! Those are 17mm and you need 18mm pins.

Powder coating won't warp the head as it is only baked to 180 degrees and there's plenty of people done it with no overheating issues later on BUT I recommend blasting and painting with Wurth or PJ1 fast black satin as these give a very original looking finish and will last years if done right. As f...

Not an area you want to be skimping on.
I only use Tsubaki camellia hd chains from Debbens etc.
Pre stretched and pre stressed etc.
Usually cheaper than oem too.

I initially had 15 - 36 with my 17" wheels and it went like a motocrosser . I now run 19 - 40 which is just right. You could probably do away with the first two gears using 17 - 46 :shock: . You need a ratio of around 1.92 to 1 with 17's as an equivalent to the original 2.2 with 18" wheels.

Only two different rotors.
It's because of the advancer.
The early ones were 5 to 40 degrees and the later were 10 to 40 degrees.
Changing the advancer for an early or later one depending on what's fitted will have the same effect as changing the rotor.

It's the ROTOR.
It will have '3' or '3A' stamped on it.
Which ever one you have is wrong and you need the other one.

Spoke to electrex and i need 220 rpm to get a spark so am buying their race alt that uses the same billet back plate but is slimmer so it will fit under the cover i made.
The bike will still look the same so no trickness lost
Un-used Z900 race ignition anyone ?

Can't you run a little 12v dry cell (Maplins) to aid starting? - Whack a diode in the system and it should be enuff to get the spark going from zero :?: That's a good idea if it can be done without damaging the Electrex. I'll be using a 12v dry cell for the horn anyway so an extra wire or two won't...

The problem is as you have mentioned, the B1 intake runners are longer due to the integral injector ports.
I would presume you either need the b1 air box or the connecting rubbers as one or both of those must be slightly shorter than the 'J's

I've never rode with lights in daylight anyway and have never had a problem in nigh on 40 years - touch wood. I have fitted a brake light though to stop 'em running up my arse end . Rob, I thought daylight m.o.t. would require a brake light anyway? Seems dangerous if not! No. For daylight running a...

I've never rode with lights in daylight anyway and have never had a problem in nigh on 40 years - touch wood.
I have fitted a brake light though to stop 'em running up my arse end .

Don't need provision for a starter, just a genny will do as i'm using a kicker so will only need it to charge a small battery for the ign and horn. :idea: Suppose i could fit the Dyna and run total loss as a last resort which would be fun,at least that will allow me to get it running for local testi...