Any z900/1000 head up to the the MK2 will fit with the main difference being 6mm exhaust studs on the early heads and 8mm on the later ones. All the valves etc are the same ( except for the injection models ) and the mk2 heads have a minor casting difference near the cam end plugs which is only visu...

I've done loads using ZXR type slave cylinders on outrigger plates etc but if you want an invisible conversion then there a chap called Falk Stumm in Germany who makes one that fits out of sight in the stock sprocket cover.

One last job before i can finally fit the alternator permanently and go do something else. For your hard earned cash the Electrex offering comes with a bonus feature that will starve the top end of oil and destroy your cams in the process. This "feature" means there's no provision in the ...

Got the freewheel clearance sorted and had a bit of starter clutch thrust washer and shim tweaking to do to move the starter clutch and gear inboard another millimeter or so as it's face was just clipping the inside of the cover so with that done there's just one more job to do on the rotor assembl...

The M16 x 1.5 tap i've been waiting for turned up today for the Kawasaki puller bolt thread so spent a few productive hours in the shed knocking up the puller. The inner m8 bolts fit the modified kawasaki rotor hub. SUNP0234.JPG And the outer m6 bolts fit the Electrex one. SUNP0236.JPG The main bod...

I'd put an ad in the wanted section.
There's ton's of people who have fitted Dyna ignitions so there's bound to be a few points cams going spare..

Genuine Helicoil or Re-coil give good results but i've never had problems with any i've used.
The crucial part is drilling and tapping the plug hole square which determines the end result.

That is the correct 005 20/40 degree advancer for all Z900, Z1000 up to the Z1R D1 .
The rotor needs swapping for a cam though if you want to run points.

That plug thread is too iffy to risk leaving as is.
It just needs helicoiling or timeserting.
Despite what some say, Helicoils are more than up to the job if fitted correctly.
I have helicoils in some of my heads and my daily rider of 25 years and never had one come out..

Had a MAJOR stroke of luck this morning regarding the rotor puller dilemma. The back of the original rotor hub just happens to have three plain blanked 6mm holes next to the threaded through holes for the starter clutch mounting bolts. SUNP0201.JPG They serve no purpose in the assembly of the alter...

As far as my investigating goes it shows that both J and ZRX share the same sized steering head bearings hence it seemed an easy route to go rather than have billet yokes made. Beware that even though they may share the same bearings the ZRX stem may be longer or shorter than the J stem and still w...

moizeau wrote:Rob, you should buy a load, rework them and sell them out

At the £700 + each they sting you for to start with i don't think it would be a worthwhile effort..

The postie delivered this piece of 50mm dia Acetal bar yesterday so set about working out the rotor and winding alignment measurments this morning. SUNP0177.JPG Started by machining the outer so the windings just slip on. SUNP0178.JPG And then bored the inner to take the rotor which has left a wafe...

I meant to ask if there is any residual magnetism in the hub from the old rotor, it having been in close proximity with strong magnets for such a long time?? There's no magnetism at all, even the complete rotors are not magnetic at the internal taper. The hexagonal "star" surrounding the ...

Now that the rotor hub has had all the cast aluminium removed it's diameter is a few mill too small to accurately center the starter clutch so i've had to come up with this steel spacer cup to make up the difference. SUNP0172.JPG It's a very snug fit and is securely sandwiched between the hub and c...