I know these concourse competitions are serious stuff. But checking the wattage on the idiot lights is a step too far.

One of the first mods we bid back in the 70’s was swap the head light for an H4 unit. All of them were directional. The one that came with my A1 was European spec (left hand drive). Got away with it at the MOT for years till a prang saw it replaced by another of suspect origin. The problem as I re...

Touch wood, I’ve not had a problem with mine to date but great advice none the less.
What part does the Horlikcs play? Does it help sparkies sleep at night?

Depend on what you’ve got now. The 900 release mechanism had a steel screw in a plastic nut. The 1000 had a ball screw and had a much better action. The Easy Clutch will be better than the 900, but compared to a good condition 1000, it’s difficult to say.

The shiny coating inside is the tungsten filament condensing on the inside of the glass. This happens as the bulb nears the end of its life.
Change them all and your world will be a brighter place.

Neat kickstart cover mod. Wouldn’t have bothered with the bush myself, nice work none the less.

Heads are interchangeable. I'd use your Z1 head. Check cam lobe faces for wear and pick the best.

Excellent work.

try -
http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/o-rings.html for O-rings

The choke lifters often bend. Check that they are all bent the same way.

There should be a hole all the way through. Thats where the fuel gos. It's very small, like 0.2mm. The cross drilled holes are where the air from the air screw mixes with the fuel before entering the carb bore.

I can't remember what yours carbs are like. If they're the same pattern as the earlier Z1000 you'll need to add a smaller air jet that leads to the needle jet. I can give you the dimensions or do it for you if you'd like. Below is a pic and closeup showing the new jet. http://i792.photobucket.com/al...

These pages are from the Service Manual published by Kawasaki in 1977 and covering the A1, A2 and D1 models.
If anyone would like a specific section just PM me.

Pigford - I agree on both points. But on a standard engine it shouldn’t be a problem. Gears and roller bearings grind down the molecular structure much quicker than plain bearings, especially if your drag racing. So I’d pick a good brand and change your oil regularly. I don’t think its worth s...

It sounds as if it’s running week at tick over. Are the pilot air passages free? Take the pilot jet out, put you finger over the hole and blow down the outer air passage. You should hear air coming out in the carb bore. The inner air passage in the carb mouth go’s to the needle jet and has littl...

I asked this question last year when I decided to get the bike back on the road. So I did some quick research on the net. It turns out that synthetic oil is chemically adjusted mineral oil and fully synthetic consists of 50% mineral oil and 50% chemically adjusted oil. Back in the 80’s I constantl...