The 'UP' on the little dampener rubbers faces UP. Best not to use them if they have gone hard and brittle as they can break up when the head is tightened. They aren't glued on the idler shafts. just use a blob of grease to keep them in place whilst fitting the gasket and head. Don't use any sort of ...

Used to use Hylomar years ago but prefer the RTV now. It's a better all round product for sealing cases, cam end plugs and cam chain tunnel etc. The Hylomar is non setting so no good for the cam tunnel and the cam end plugs tend to shift and need reseating if the camcover is removed whereas the RTV ...

Been using this for a while now . Very good on the crankcase joint and sets firm when filling the camchain tunnel 'O' ring groove if using a one piece head gasket. Comes in clear, black, grey, red, copper etc. From £3.50 a tube delivered. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/v-tech-vt-157-vital-black-rtv-sili...

It is a just 900 or 1000 head.
A previous owner has reshaped the fins to remove damage from a spill.
Probably done both sides the same so they match.

Tidied up the front end a bit. Bought one of these alloy reservoirs to modify and replace the original plastic eyesore . £15 delivered from Taiwan . Not worth making one myself for that price as it comes with a screw cap and the internal diaphragm etc. KGrHqVicFEcyGDRfBRMcPEPKw60_35_zpsce1004aa.jpg...

Correct float height is 22mm to 24mm.

Please everybody and fit flat bars

big green bus wrote:I notice the cutters are 31 & 46 I thought the angles were 30 45 60 could anybody tell me different and would the 1 degree make and difference anyway.

It's called an interference or race cut.
The 1/2 degree difference on the mating surfaces create a wedge effect for a better seal.

I intend to contact the makers of the valve face cutting tools, with a view to adding them to the list of wonderful shiny things available from Biker's Toolbox :D I've been getting my Neway cutters and spares from Beam equipment in the US. Even with postage and customs etc they have been half the p...

Don't hit the rotor or extractor with an hammer and using a normal length spanner sometimes isn't enough. If it really is that tight don't use anything on the rotor to lock it as it can distort , you need to find another way of holding the crank. If you are stripping the bike anyway then pull the cr...

Before I buy some off evilbay has anyone got a pair of new (unused) ones surplus to requirements at a cheaper price
Really want them with the gloss finish as the recent ones have a dull/matt finish on them which I don't like.
Maybe have some stuff to trade if needed.

Loose gear lever ? Spring come off the selector mechanism ?

I jokingly asked them for a px but they wouldn't play. I didn't really buy it by mistake though just took it for granted that it would spin fast enough off the kickstart. If I don't sell it I suppose i'll have to build a proper race bike to put it on :lol: I must say though! For what you get in the ...

Slowly slowly 'n' all that, two steps forward and one big step back but getting there. A few more jobs done and a couple added :roll: First one or two steps forward off the list. Number plate mount finally done. This simply gets sandwiched between the rear light and rubber mounts on the seat. PICT0...

Most likely a bent selector fork but try swapping the selector mechanism first as the hooks that push and pull the drum round can wear and not rotate it quite enough to engage fully on the first prod.
The latter is probably not the cause but is easier and cheaper to eliminate.