Got a good few hours in recently but mainly on stuff that can't be seen. Rebuilt the oil pump and made this oil pan gate which allowed me to blast, paint and fit the sump to the motor with new 'O'ring and sump plug. Gate open SUNP0299.JPG And gate closed SUNP0300.JPG And got the camcover, kickstart...

You must not run the bike without one fitted. As mentioned there are some on ebay etc or maybe a club member may have one spare. If you don't know what size you need then buy the thickest one (8.3mm) as they can be reduced in width by lapping on a flat plate with some wet'n'dry.. You also need to ma...

Z1streetfighter71 wrote:Is the Simoniz satin petrol resistant?

I always bake my parts after it's cured overnight and then petrol won't touch it..

Fair point Zed, I had similar issues with paint lifting too so must be my poor prep work. I noticed that Simoniz satin black isn't VHT from my recent search. The VHT version doesn't specify a surface finish. Can anyone enlighten me? I used flat PJ1 once and it was a bitch to keep clean so want sati...

I've had a couple of engines through my hand 's that were powdered and they didn't last too long before it started to lift and corrode underneath and really eat into the alloy. I personally wouldn't coat the cases and just stick to using Sperex/Simoniz tough satin paint. It lasts for many many years...

Any z900/1000 head up to the the MK2 will fit with the main difference being 6mm exhaust studs on the early heads and 8mm on the later ones. All the valves etc are the same ( except for the injection models ) and the mk2 heads have a minor casting difference near the cam end plugs which is only visu...

I've done loads using ZXR type slave cylinders on outrigger plates etc but if you want an invisible conversion then there a chap called Falk Stumm in Germany who makes one that fits out of sight in the stock sprocket cover.

One last job before i can finally fit the alternator permanently and go do something else. For your hard earned cash the Electrex offering comes with a bonus feature that will starve the top end of oil and destroy your cams in the process. This "feature" means there's no provision in the ...

Got the freewheel clearance sorted and had a bit of starter clutch thrust washer and shim tweaking to do to move the starter clutch and gear inboard another millimeter or so as it's face was just clipping the inside of the cover so with that done there's just one more job to do on the rotor assembl...

The M16 x 1.5 tap i've been waiting for turned up today for the Kawasaki puller bolt thread so spent a few productive hours in the shed knocking up the puller. The inner m8 bolts fit the modified kawasaki rotor hub. SUNP0234.JPG And the outer m6 bolts fit the Electrex one. SUNP0236.JPG The main bod...

I'd put an ad in the wanted section.
There's ton's of people who have fitted Dyna ignitions so there's bound to be a few points cams going spare..

Genuine Helicoil or Re-coil give good results but i've never had problems with any i've used.
The crucial part is drilling and tapping the plug hole square which determines the end result.

That is the correct 005 20/40 degree advancer for all Z900, Z1000 up to the Z1R D1 .
The rotor needs swapping for a cam though if you want to run points.

That plug thread is too iffy to risk leaving as is.
It just needs helicoiling or timeserting.
Despite what some say, Helicoils are more than up to the job if fitted correctly.
I have helicoils in some of my heads and my daily rider of 25 years and never had one come out..

Had a MAJOR stroke of luck this morning regarding the rotor puller dilemma. The back of the original rotor hub just happens to have three plain blanked 6mm holes next to the threaded through holes for the starter clutch mounting bolts. SUNP0201.JPG They serve no purpose in the assembly of the alter...