The needle JETS are the small brass insert that are a snug press fit in the venturi floor. These are held in place by the immulsion tube also know as main jet holder. Which parts do you need ? as all these are available from NRP Keyster and are accurately made in my experience. It is the needle jet ...

Pretty much the standard method on custom or modified yokes and have done plenty like that myself..
Also can people please refrain from using the terms ,Triple tree, Fender, or petcock etc as it's just not british

I was brought up with bikes and my old man had around 40 old brits in various states of decay so it's hard to say what was my first one. The first bike I ever rebuilt myself was a Ducati Ts125 (bevel drive) when I was 11 which I used to dodge the cops on round the local country lanes until the elect...

london calling wrote:What bike are the shocks from Lee

Look like GSX1400.

Z1 - 900 and first 1000A = 8mm rotor bolt and woodruff key.
Later 1000 went to 10mm rotor bolt and no woodruff key but same taper.
MK2 1000 went to 12mm bolt and larger dia crank taper.

I have Kibblewhite bronze guides in my Z1R - No problems.
Only design difference to the later valves are the round keepers and the guides are cast iron as opposed to the 900's bronze ones which wore out quick due to the poor quality of their composition.

70MM = 1015cc.

I had a word with A well known Z dealer at stafford, He said the Uni head is differant at the inner stud hole's ie' thiker or higher, :| It is the casting above and around the combustion chambers that is thicker on the twin swirl / bathtub Unitrack and 83 on Z1100 heads but the height of the head w...

Those HD studs don't always have to be bottomed out in the cases, especially if someone has run a tap down the cases to clean the threads and cut them deeper. You need to set the height you need then apply stud lock and leave them to set. You do need them inserted at least the same depth as their wi...

Great project you have here and I have learnt much reading through it from start to finish. Stripping off the anodizing, shrink wrap over the cyl studs, to name a couple. So a big thanks for all that information :D Re. digital instruments, I have use Trailtech Vapor units on 3 bikes now and can tho...

The brownish heat/oil discolouration band around the middle is normal with the upper and lower portions being kept "natural" due to the buckets rocking in the bores. Blueing of the buckets would indicate excessive heat and increased risk of seizure. However the two left hand buckets appear...

Okay, some further investigation with the cam cover off. This is a photo of the original buckets I replaced. Does this look like "normal" for exhaust buckets? left to right 1 to 4 http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah34/warren453200gt/20140928_1829521_zps6163fd8e.jpg As far as heat disco...

If there's no sign of oil around 3 and 4 (with the bike running on the main stand ) i would pull the head and flush out the cross drilling and the cam feeds.
Even once they are cleared you may still have some slight rattle if the bucket bores are worn but that won't do any harm.

The only practical way to check for oil circulation is with the engine running and syringing would be a waste of time . The oil feed for the cams splits in the head so if you are getting oil to the inlets the only place for a blockage is the cross drilling to the exhaust. This means only taking the ...

So now I'm thinking it may be a blocked oil way to 3 and 4 exhaust cam bearing. This could have been due to the engine builder not cleaning them properly when he did all the work.Is there any way to check without stripping the entire top end assuming I have decent pressure from the pump? If I blow ...