Back when I was re-building forks, including changing upside down legs, which meant unscrewing the casing from the leg I used a torx hammered into the allen head grub screw without ever trying the allen key, a bit of heat until the threadlock went soft and it worked every time.

Has anybody got a set they've cut off or a wrecked frame I can remove them from?

Thanks guys

Yes I believe he did, I think he arrived on a red Z1000A2.....but was it metallic or non metallic ? Hide out.....quite appropriate for Mr Smyth don't you think. RS Bike Paint list it as "Luminous Red Metallic Paint", personally I can't believe that Kawasaki would have had a different type...

ADRIAN H wrote:I like the angle of the silencers, but they look a bit oversized.

The angles under the engine look wrong though.

Shame because everything else on the site looks top notch.

Gus wrote:

I don't think that looks good at all.

No, this does though...

http://www.osmc.co.uk/kawasaki_z1000a.htm

I am watching this with interest. Getting a bit of a Z Thou bug myself at the mo. Wonder if anyone will ever start to do a decent repro silencer set for them ??? From Mark You can get them Mark,place in Dunkirk,got some pics from him,but hard to get complete info due to language barrier. These look...

ZedHead wrote:Info sent to registered Saisei customers

Thanks,

Gone in my basket, along with my Z1000 bits, will be ordering when I've worked out everything I need.

warren3200gt wrote:http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5278

What a great tool

That's good advice, the hammering action will help matters too.

I just had a GSX1100 original box section swing-arm powder-coated silver, for exactly the reasons you describe, it looks great and will be wipe clean.

Beware 532 chains, these have the 5 x 1/8th pitch and 3 x 1/8th width, but the rollers are slightly larger diameter, they seem to fit, but in action roll up the sprocket teeth and make a hell of a noise, if you don't spot it. I bought one of these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Chain-Splitt...

Gus wrote:Use a top hat nut with a ball bearing inside it.
The nut locks on via the ball bearing then releases easily without having to wreck/stretch any threads

What a good idea.

Mark, use a heat induction removal tool. Remarkable bits of kit these are. They heat the target very quickly while leaving the surrounding areas relatively cool. A seized bolt or stud are a doddle to remove. If you can, get 2 nuts onto the thread and tighten them together , locking them into postio...

Wish i had only one stud stuck when i restored a Gs thou a few years back,bike had been standing in damp for some time,virtually every fastener was seized,took some time but every one came out its just time patience and different techniques... I've got 5 cylinder studs to get out of a GS1000 crankc...

Ok thanks I get that alloy expands more than steel under heat. I still reckon any expansion of the alloy will shrink the hole not grow it but it clearly works somehow. I CAN see that the differing rate of expansion would tend to pull apart the stuck surfaces. Ref Loctite it is a GOOD point. I will ...