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My CBX build

Talk about all your non-Zed or even Kawasaki bikes here.

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damien.wrl
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Joined: 7th Feb 2018
Location: Cornwall

Re: My CBX build

#31 PostAuthor: damien.wrl » Sat Jun 02, 2018 10:10 pm

That engine is a thing of beauty... would be proud to have it on a Stand in my lounge but it would be a shame not to be able to hear it

Russ
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Joined: 6th Mar 2018
Location: North Wales

Re: My CBX build

#32 PostAuthor: Russ » Tue Jun 12, 2018 10:59 pm

So, while the engine bits are away for their expensive coating......

I had already had some sub assemblies together, forks, clocks, etc. The main stand was put onto the frame, then head stock, handle bars and forks. The G clamp at the bottom of the stand is to stop it accidentally folding up and everything collapsing :D .

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Bottom yolk was in good shape so was not polished or laquered.

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Swingarm with new plain bronze bearings (originals were plastic?) and footrest brackets were put on. Front pegs with Wim's new rubbers

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Rear wheel and chain, chain is endless so needs to go in with the swing arm

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Headlight frame with rubber mounts and clocks go on, the horn was stripped and polished / powder coated.

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The the battery box and rear tank mount with new fixings, everything is rubber mounted with spacer dowels.

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Then a call from the ceramic coaters.....engine bits are ready to be collected :)

Quick trip up to Warrington to pick up the parts. The rough procedure is they clean and blast them, then coat in a finish and colour of your choice, bake them and then polish with a finishing media or tumble bath. As I've said the finish is very tough, but it's not as aesthetically good as polishing or chroming, The few casings and covers I sent were pushing £450. Given the choice again I would have got the stuff powder coated silver.

Cleaned all the gasket surfaces off ready for the new joints, checked the cam timing for the umpteenth time, new plugs fitted and oiled the cam bearings and lobes.

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Cam cover on, the rubber gasket has a mind of it's own and is a bitch to keep in place while the cover goes on.

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Clutch cover on with new actuator shaft seals, timing gear and cover back on.

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Alternator cover wasn't painted as the early ones were magnesium and gasses out with the heat of the ceramic coating process.
The drive on these alternators are a spring loaded friction drive, bit like like a clutch plate. They are "troublesome" and this one was out of square to the shaft splines and had witness marks to indicate it was overheating, made a mandrel up and faced it back on the lathe.

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Motor almost ready to go back into the frame, got to put the carbs, cables and some other bits on....then get two or eight others to give me a lift :D

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Savage
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Re: My CBX build

#33 PostAuthor: Savage » Wed Jun 13, 2018 12:14 am

Didn't Alexander the Great say: If I didn't have a zed I'd like to have a CBX, maybe I'm confusing my quotes :)

Looks amazing Russ :vcool
1121

Russ
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Joined: 6th Mar 2018
Location: North Wales

Re: My CBX build

#34 PostAuthor: Russ » Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:25 pm

Can put some of the sub-assemblies back on now.

Got the carbs on with the control cables already fitted. I was waiting for over a year for the engine breather hose (the short one coming out of the rear if the alternator) on "back order", in the end I kept buying various second hand ones from other bikes off eBay and this one is made from a center section of a 929 fireblade I think?

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Carb to engine rubbers are luckily still available, after 40 years the originals were very brittle, air box connectors are thinner material and a bit more flexible when heated a bit and went on to the inlets OK.

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After fitting the airbox we rigged up a Heath Robinson lifting arm from box section on the end of the engine hoist.

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Very little clearance so we had to get it near enough and then shove it into position and let the lift off.

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After a bit of heave-ho-ing it's in the frame with the bottom engine mount in, we manually lifted it up a bit then put a trolley jack under the sump to get more control of it as there are plenty of bits to get caught and things need to be attached as it goes up.

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And it's finally in with the rest of the engine mounts on.

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From this side you can see what I mean about the ceramic coating not being as aesthetically pleasing as polishing, I'm being a bit picky though :roll: .

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The original engine had figures printed onto the rear of the motor, these were the engine assembly date - on the picture below you can see them. Obviously the ones printed at the factory were removed when the motor was vapour blasted.
Hodna used the Japanese notation method so 53.7.7 means this one was assembled on the 7th July 1978 (53 being 1978). The number below states that this was the 12th engine built that day - confusing I know, but that's the way they did it.

The engine serial number should also be within about 200 of the frame number, if this is the case it is almost certain it's the original engine and frame.

IMG_0885.JPG

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damien.wrl
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Re: My CBX build

#35 PostAuthor: damien.wrl » Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:06 pm

Fortunately I was wearing sunglasses when I saw these latest pictures, quite like the ceramic finish... looks a bit more factory than mirror finish

Russ
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Joined: 6th Mar 2018
Location: North Wales

Re: My CBX build

#36 PostAuthor: Russ » Tue Jul 17, 2018 9:58 am

Short post for the brake calipers and some other bits;

Got front and rear bake master cylinder seal kits, new pads all round and new caliper seal kits, also put new pistons in while they were stripped down. These are some of the few things that are readily available, I think these were from Tourmax.

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Some of the most primitive brakes there are..............

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Rear caliper assembly in, the period "Hagon" shockers are only on temporarily and will be removed when some original CBX ones I found are refurbished. The CBX ones will probably cost more than Ohlins for the bike by the time they are done.

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Front calipers almost done.

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Even at this stage there are surprises. This is the clutch lever pivot assembly off the bars, the 6mm pivot thread was knackered. I think sometime in the past the bolt had backed off and the action of the clutch lever had worn the threads off one side of the hole - you can still see the witness marks at about 2 o'clock above the helicoil. A drill jig was made to drill the rest of the threads out keeping the centre of the threaded hole concentric with the main pivot hole in the top of the assembly. Then a helicoil was modified and inserted into the larger thread, it is only three threads deep but I'm sure the repair is good. A new pivot bolt was sourced NOS from Poland.

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