rear wire wheel

[DeadZedDave]

Now the sprocket carrier is sorted (it IS definitely the correct one), I'm going to guess you'll plan to use the Ltd. disc / calliper with the 1000A wire spoked wheel ? Just a heads up - the disc offset / distance from wheel centreline is not the same for the 1000A - the Ltd has the disc mounted further out.
Recollection is maybe 3mm or so but the calliper needs to be centralised on the disc so some "adjustment" of the brake side spindle spacers will be needed - an extra one out board of the calliper bracket and a reduced length between the bracket and wheel bearing... Checking out your pics. of previous bikes, I don't think your a stranger to making mismatched parts fit together so I doubt you'll have any problems with this !
To ask a favour however, when you get to swapping the wheels, could you please measure / post details of the length dimensions for the Ltd. spindle spacers - these questions come up regularly .... Thanks !

[Hard Road]

Now the sprocket carrier is sorted (it IS definitely the correct one), I'm going to guess you'll plan to use the Ltd. disc / calliper with the 1000A wire spoked wheel ? Just a heads up - the disc offset / distance from wheel centreline is not the same for the 1000A - the Ltd has the disc mounted further out.
Recollection is maybe 3mm or so but the calliper needs to be centralised on the disc so some "adjustment" of the brake side spindle spacers will be needed - an extra one out board of the calliper bracket and a reduced length between the bracket and wheel bearing... Checking out your pics. of previous bikes, I don't think your a stranger to making mismatched parts fit together so I doubt you'll have any problems with this !
To ask a favour however, when you get to swapping the wheels, could you please measure / post details of the length dimensions for the Ltd. spindle spacers - these questions come up regularly .... Thanks !

yet again thanks for the info
yeah ive been modifying bikes for over 45 years and built quite a few from the ground up, making parts fit that weren't meant too also spent nearly 40 years as a mechanic and 25 of them in bike shops. so i do know a little bit
and yeah i will do the spacer measurements

[DeadZedDave]

Your'e welcome to the information. Theres not much to do with old Zeds that hasn't been done before. Its good to know theres still one or two of us around - I've never had an interest in standard bikes. Just count your lucky stars you're not a "Rivet Counter" otherwise you'd now be starting the search for a rear brake calliper and disc..... and all the rest....
Good luck with the modified Zed build - it'll be good to se how it turns out !

[Hard Road]

Your'e welcome to the information. Theres not much to do with old Zeds that hasn't been done before. Its good to know theres still one or two of us around - I've never had an interest in standard bikes. Just count your lucky stars you're not a "Rivet Counter" otherwise you'd now be starting the search for a rear brake calliper and disc..... and all the rest....
Good luck with the modified Zed build - it'll be good to se how it turns out !

never been a rivet counter Dave, always like to make a bike my own i emailed the guy who im getting the carrier of and he's gona add the spacer for free, good of him.
the rear wheel turned up today and its pretty good, i think both wheels are a matched pair ???? both from DK.
but their is a few tyre lever scratches on the edge of the rim and 2 spokes missing !!!! but i do have a set of chrome Harley spokes that are the same length that'll do for now but as i said they will get some wide 17's at some point.

[Hard Road]

spot the 2 chrome Harley spokes next job a new tyre

[DeadZedDave]

Nice wheel.... can't spot the Harley spokes either. A few tyre lever marks are expected on a 45 year old wheel - especially with those damn security bolts ! Good match for the front - a pair of 1000A wheels is hard to come by these days. Tyre choice is not my special subject but I'll be interested to see what size you go for. 120 is accepted as "standard". We used to squeeze 130's on when we could get them back in the day. Some argue the 130 gets pulled out of profile on the 2.15 rim but close comparison between two wheels side be side with 120 vs. 130 showed virtually no difference. I'm not going to say the 130 gave any advantage - it just looked better to my own eye. (lots of variation between brands in any case) This probably belongs back on the "Project" post now ... I'm interested to see the new paint job !!

[Hard Road]

Nice wheel.... can't spot the Harley spokes either. A few tyre lever marks are expected on a 45 year old wheel - especially with those damn security bolts ! Good match for the front - a pair of 1000A wheels is hard to come by these days. Tyre choice is not my special subject but I'll be interested to see what size you go for. 120 is accepted as "standard". We used to squeeze 130's on when we could get them back in the day. Some argue the 130 gets pulled out of profile on the 2.15 rim but close comparison between two wheels side be side with 120 vs. 130 showed virtually no difference. I'm not going to say the 130 gave any advantage - it just looked better to my own eye. (lots of variation between brands in any case) This probably belongs back on the "Project" post now ... I'm interested to see the new paint job !!

I'll take the tyre off the front mag as its new, the back will get a cheap 400x18 for now as i still plan for wider 17 inch rims and stainless spokes sometime next year,
don't get exited about the paint job as its just black !!! i was gona buy a decal kit of ebay but ive spent too much money on this bike so it'll just get some cheapo stripes on it
I just want to get some miles on it before winter sets in so i know it runs ok, still fighting popping at idle I think the carbs will need all the seals replacing !!!!

[DeadZedDave]

Popping at idle is probably a minor air leak and new seals should sort it (choke plungers especially seem to suffer with ethanol from what I've heard) but if it pulls ok once you're going I'd just keep an eye on the plugs and get some miles in. Modern fuel ! - make sure you drain it off over winter. Straight black paint works for me. You can paint it any way you like - it's your bike....

@Z1Streetfighter71
I had a look at the front rim re: the rim code number question but the wheel is so rusty I didn't find anything. It'll be 19 x 1.85 - much like a lot if other Kawasaki models of the time so the rim you mentioned is a fair bet to be the matching front.
As I always say, if theres someone else here wants to tell me I'm wrong, please go ahead, I won't be offended !

[Hard Road]

Popping at idle is probably a minor air leak and new seals should sort it (choke plungers especially seem to suffer with ethanol from what I've heard) but if it pulls ok once you're going I'd just keep an eye on the plugs and get some miles in. Modern fuel ! - make sure you drain it off over winter. Straight black paint works for me. You can paint it any way you like - it's your bike....

@Z1Streetfighter71
I had a look at the front rim re: the rim code number question but the wheel is so rusty I didn't find anything. It'll be 19 x 1.85 - much like a lot if other Kawasaki models of the time so the rim you mentioned is a fair bet to be the matching front.
As I always say, if theres someone else here wants to tell me I'm wrong, please go ahead, I won't be offended !

the warmer it gets the less it pops, but still not rode it yet !!! if the LTD tank was clean i would put that on for a road test but its pretty minging my bodywork should be done next week.
ethanol fuel is crap, i miss 4 star
yeah judging by the condition of both wheels my guess is their from the same bike !!!

I know I can get new ore used cush drive rubbers easy enough but come across a set that are all separate, normally they are one piece, do you think they will fit ? it does say Z750B

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335483245652

[DeadZedDave]

It's been a while for one reason and another but I might tell you the last Zed I used regularly used to pop and spit until it was warmed up.... I recall several standard ones which also did.... in fact now I think about it, just about every one with a standard motor / carbs. It didn't bother me much though - they didn't spend much time ticking over....
The cush drive should be in one piece as you know. Its a tough call to judge just by looking at the pics. D&K are pretty good in my own experience and if they say it came out of a 750B it should be ok. At the price its maybe worth a punt but if it doesn't fit then they might argue about you putting it in a 1000A wheel - even though WE know its the same thing. You could perhaps see if they're up for sending an EXTRA pic. with the rubbers sitting in the hub of the other 1000A wheel they have for sale.... a picture tells a thousand words - and costs nothing ?
As for the petrol, I'd be trying to check how much ethanol your local "super" E5 actually has - its up to almost 5% in North East I read but theres parts of the South where its much lower % apparently - maybe worth trying to find out. You could go to your local lawnmower / garden machinery supplier and see what "fuel" they might sell - it'll be three times the price but what price are those vintage bike parts - better safe than sorry ? / peace of mind ! Even if its just for the initial shakedown - it takes a known negative variable out of the picture.

[Hard Road]

It's been a while for one reason and another but I might tell you the last Zed I used regularly used to pop and spit until it was warmed up.... I recall several standard ones which also did.... in fact now I think about it, just about every one with a standard motor / carbs. It didn't bother me much though - they didn't spend much time ticking over....
The cush drive should be in one piece as you know. Its a tough call to judge just by looking at the pics. D&K are pretty good in my own experience and if they say it came out of a 750B it should be ok. At the price its maybe worth a punt but if it doesn't fit then they might argue about you putting it in a 1000A wheel - even though WE know its the same thing. You could perhaps see if they're up for sending an EXTRA pic. with the rubbers sitting in the hub of the other 1000A wheel they have for sale.... a picture tells a thousand words - and costs nothing ?
As for the petrol, I'd be trying to check how much ethanol your local "super" E5 actually has - its up to almost 5% in North East I read but theres parts of the South where its much lower % apparently - maybe worth trying to find out. You could go to your local lawnmower / garden machinery supplier and see what "fuel" they might sell - it'll be three times the price but what price are those vintage bike parts - better safe than sorry ? / peace of mind ! Even if its just for the initial shakedown - it takes a known negative variable out of the picture.

I must admit ive heard a few zeds pop on start up and idle !!! I'll email DK and see what they say about the rubbers.
i do get my E5 from my local tesco and its always been good. I'll see how the road test goes.

[Hard Road]

played it safe and bought the right one, £25.

[DeadZedDave]

Good call on the cush drive I think - not worth messing about for the sake of an extra fiver !

[Hard Road]

Good call on the cush drive I think - not worth messing about for the sake of an extra fiver !