Gpz1100 b1 clocks

[Robw]

Probably a long shot, any one got a set of clocks, for sale please?
Rob

[8 Valve Mark]

i hunted for a set for about 2yrs rob, i ended up with a set from south africa(mph) have you tried ebay s.a.,aus,canada,japan,usa? mine came about 10 yrs ago n I'd hate to be looking today. are yours gubbed? fixable possibly? missing? m

[Robw]

I havent got a set, the ones i thought i had are b2 clocks. I know where there are a set with 80mph on it, so not perfect but i am not too bothered about that aspect.
Rob

[8 Valve Mark]

I'd say 'grab the 80 mph' jobs if poss rob. that way you have summit to work with.they can be re-calibrated with a new back plate to uk/euro spec.

[Big Fluff]

Have to agree with Mark, grab the 80mph ones NOW!
You could easily fit the head unit from the Z1100A or early Z1000J to replace the 80mph one.
An examples on offer... https://picclick.co.uk/Kawasaki-Speedo- ... 49602.html
The range has the same degrees sweep so should be perfect. I can then supply you (or fit) with a 160mph gauge face kit.

[samspoons]

Will, if he bought a kmh euro clock and he put one of your mph overlays on would it read correct they look very close when you look at the degrees . Also do you repair these clocks and know how too test them.

[Robw]

Cheers for all the responses. I have bought the 80 mph from Germany. So i will be after getting them sorted after Christmas.
Cheers Rob

[Big Fluff]

Will, if he bought a kmh euro clock and he put one of your mph overlays on would it read correct they look very close when you look at the degrees . Also do you repair these clocks and know how too test them.

Correct Sam, yes it read perfect if fitted with one of my MPH overlays on too.
Only way I can think to test one is to apply 12v, connect the hall sender and spinning it.

[Al]

Sam as far as i remember it as i dont understand it.
You plug the hall sensor wires into an oscilloscope and this generates a signal when the wheel is turned. 21 pulses per revolution of the wheel.
Feed that output into a signal generator (similar looking thing to and oscilloscope) and you should get the speedo and odo to respond as if they were driven by the hall sensor.
It either is, or had to be modified to a square wave and i am going to guess that this is done at 12volts.
Increase the frequency and you can read off the accuracy / inaccuracy at different speeds etc.
Mine on test was at its most accurate at around 100MPH, under-reading below that and over-reading above if i remember correctly.
Beyond that its all gobledygook to me But yes it can be done.

AL

[samspoons]

Thanks for replies guys

[mattc]

Hi, I have tested a load of Z1000 J1/2 and GPz1100 B1 speedo's and tachos.....table 5.33 in the Kwak Manual states that one rev of the front wheel should generate 23 pulses. The signal from the wheel is buffered and level shifted in the Odometer. if you put a scope on the orange lead coming from the odometer and going to the speedo, jack up and spin the front wheel you see a nice square wave with a 50/50 mark-space ratio.
Table 5.33 states the waveform should move between less than 1.5V to more than 5V. They state meter range of 10V so it does not go to 12V.
I use a pretty simple signal generator and then a single tansistor stage to buffer and level shift the signal fto provide a square wave of approx 1V to approx 6V....works a treat. All you need to do is to get an accurate radius/diameter of your front wheel and convert this to miles. Based on 23 pulses per rev you can figure out the range of frequencies you need to test the speedo in say 10 mph increments from 10-160 mph. That will show you the accuracy and the linearity of your speedo. THe PCBs of the speedos (or rev counters) have a small pot on them that is factory set that you can fiddle with if your speedo is way out....but I would only do this if you are taking full sets of measurements as you might make it worse.
One other point to note is that there are a number of electrolytic capacitors on the PCBs and these are 37 years old now......way past their sell by date and I would change them, easy and cheap parts to get.
Once you think you are good....check the "probably optimistic" speedo against a GPS on the bars, and if your speedo is out but has good linearity across the speed range then you can take it all apart again and try and tweak it in via the pot if so inclined.
Have fun and let me know if you need any more useless info........