Bizarre Speedo Issue On Z1000J

[Gibbotvr]

Well here goes
On my Z1000J 82 I have replaced the wheel sensor (off a working system), replaced the odometer and have a spare speedo.
I have done all the electrics checks found in the manual and found that the signal coming off the orange wire was always giving 5volts or above and not reducing when the open circuit was changed.
I purchased another oddometer.
Once fitted I went down the road and the oddometer and speedo all worked, happy days
I get to the end of the road and it stops working . When I switch the bike off and start it again it will work for less then quarter of a mile again and then stop.
I just changed the speedo head to a spare 80mph one I have (what's that all about) and its exactly the same.
Either its working or its not!!
Any ideas??

[Al]

Others but not that one!!
if you can get the front wheel off the ground, with it either working or not and spin the wheel with the ignition on you should be able to tell what the problem is. The Mickey Mouse clockwork motor in the odo is seriously noisy and if it runs when you spin the wheel you know its working and therefore so is the Hall sensor which is driving it! Tip; spin the wheel using the chuck of an electric drill pressed against the centre line of the tyre!!! See how fast you can go It wont take long to do a 1/4 mile at which point something should change.

AL

[z1bman]

it states in the manual if the speedo sensor does not oscillate to replace the odometer this also controls the automatic indicators & cancels after 50 meters so could be connected to the speedo failing when it does

[Gibbotvr]

Thanks for that.
Ive just been for a 15 mile run and not a flicker until about 12 miles in and it started working, albeit waving like a flag in a force 10.
I'm going to check the wheel drive is located and the tabs are not damaged or worn. There is an odd noise coming from the front wheel after the run. Its difficult to know what's going on in there.

[Al]

It is very easy to get the sensor sat on top of the tabs on the drive ring, not so easy to get it to locate accurately. It will be immediately apparent if you look at it because its very flimsy and it crushes inwards if it was wrongly placed. Looking at the parts diagram it looks like there are two different sorts which i hadnt noticed previously. One has tabs facing inward and out, the other; only tabs facing in and recesses facing out. Might be worth checking you have the right one. Also might be worth checking that someone didnt assume that the circlip is designed to hold the bearing in as on the RHS. Its just for the drive ring which is loose once fitted.

AL
https://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz1000j1 ... 62034.html

[lude]

On your 15 mile ride was the odometer working correctly?

[Gibbotvr]

No the the odometer only worked when the speedo was active.

[Gibbotvr]

I might of found the issue.
On stripping it all down again I put the pegged wheel drive into the speedo assembly and turned it by hand. Low and behold the speedo is twitching and I can hear the crunching from the odometer, even at slow speed.
When I build it all back there is no certain drop from the drive onto the pegs. Took it out again, I had already made sure the tabs on both sides weren't bent and noticed a definite dish to the base. I carefully straightened the pegged drive base and now can feel a definite click when it locates.

Only problem is spinning the wheel is still not getting a reaction on the speedo or odometer. It makes me think that not running in the proper position has possibly ground down the tags so they are to short to drive properly when its all assembled again.

I will give it a test drive later and see if we have any improvements.

So its good news/bad news. Seems like the system is working all but for the last bit I haven't changed...grrr...

[Gibbotvr]

And of course the speedo receiver (tagged bit) is no longer available...aaahhhh...

Does any one know if the cable speedo receiver (tagged bit) can be modified (dremel) to work with the electronic type as this is still available.

I would imagine the wheel bit is the same but it just looks bigger up top. All for about 8 quid..

[Al]

The two inner tabs on mine were smashed flat and one of the outers was missing. Like you i straightened it but then TIG welded on another tab. With a little practice, as you push the speedo drive home you can feel the pegs with the inner ring of the drive. If you turn it just a little there is a point where it drops in. Turn a little back and forth and before the resistance of the drive mechanism starts to turn you can feel a mm of free movement.
This is what it is supposed to look like.
AL

[Gibbotvr]

It didn't even look that bad but under closer scrutiny you could tell it was fook3d..
Like I mentioned I get the drop in feeling now but I'm not sure if its enough as the speedo is not twitching when on the centre stand. When I had it in hand, like you said, the smallest movement has the speedo moving.

[Al]

The tubular part was recessed back into the rim part by about the depth of the tabs,... about three mm or so. It looked factory as it was deformed uniformly with a nice dish at the base of the intersection of the two 'features' and i didnt know what it was supposed to look like at that time.

AL

[Gibbotvr]

Its official it worked

Amazing the power of the Birmingham screwdriver (hammer!!)

I'm sure the receiver will need replacing at some point but good for now.

As always thanks for all the help.