Another Z1B carb post

[andygriffiths]

Hi newbie here,

I'm trying to set up the carbs, like so many on here so bear with me.

I've recently aquired the bike, it had been standing for years with fuel in it

The problem I have is that the tickover goes up and difficult to get it down as the engine gets hot, the tickover ajuster is screwed right out.

The only way to get it down is pushing on the 13mm nut next to the ajuster (sorry I don't know the right name for it)

I've stripped the carbs sonic cleaned them, fitted refurb kits from ZPower
I've synced the carbs on the bench and it looks pretty close on the vacum gauges when running.

It seems to me that the slides aren't closing properly, the revs don't gow down quickly enough when closing the throttle, unless I put light pressure on that 13mm nut.

Air screws are 1 1/4, ignition is Dyna
Compression test is 100 dry and 125 wet
Float heights are 24mm
Stock air box and exhaust

Thanks in advance for you wisdom

Andy

[z1bman]

Have you checked the slide heights ?

[r3sc]

I’d also consider the choke plungers.

[Peteypops23]

Throttle cables correctly routed and free to move?

[andygriffiths]

Do you know if the Haynes manual covers it? I can't find anything on here.

Its probably is the slides not bottoming out proberly I'm thinking?

Thanks

[Z1streetfighter71]

When looking at the slides full closed on the engine side not the air filter side how much of a gap is there? it should be about as wide as to get a paperclip in.. barely and on the filter side about 3mm to 3.3mm.

Edit. a big paper clip, not one of the tiny ones.

[Philippe]

Hi Andy
you need a gap of approx. 0,7 mm on the cylinder head side between the slide and the carb throath bottom. Don't mind the air filter side, that one can't be measured because the slide isn't straight.
Before starting the static synchronisation, you must check the gap between the return gas cable bracket and the pully where the gas cables attach. That gap should be between 1,6 and 2 mm.
You can adjust that gap by turning in or out the idler screw.
If you don't have done that before you started the static synchronisation I would suggest you start all over again.
If you did that, you must check out the throttle cable play. When closing the throttle completely, there should be no gap left between the return gas cable bracket and the pully and you should have a play at the throttle grip of about 3mm.
If you have a workshop manual it's all in there, illustrated with pictures. Follow that step by step and you'll get there.
Good luck
GrtZ
Philippe

[andygriffiths]

Hi,

I ajusted the slides to be bottoming out and worked up from there.

It's now rinning peachy.

Thanks

Andy

[ADRIAN H]

Hi Andy
you need a gap of approx. 0,7 mm on the cylinder head side between the slide and the carb throath bottom. Don't mind the air filter side, that one can't be measured because the slide isn't straight.
Before starting the static synchronisation, you must check the gap between the return gas cable bracket and the pully where the gas cables attach. That gap should be between 1,6 and 2 mm.
You can adjust that gap by turning in or out the idler screw.
If you don't have done that before you started the static synchronisation I would suggest you start all over again.
If you did that, you must check out the throttle cable play. When closing the throttle completely, there should be no gap left between the return gas cable bracket and the pully and you should have a play at the throttle grip of about 3mm.
If you have a workshop manual it's all in there, illustrated with pictures. Follow that step by step and you'll get there.
Good luck
GrtZ
Philippe

This is the correct answer