KZ900A4 Blowing Fuses

[DavidZ1R]

Bugger just checked the owners manual wiring layout, I am wrong, yours is right, the white from the reg goes into the double joint, the switch white goes into the other white connection, mine works fine, but I will swap it over

[Philippe]

Hi Cas
open the kill switch, check if the inside is undamaged.
Mind there are little balls and springs inside so don't loose those.
Good luck
Philippe

[ZedHead]

Hi Cas
open the kill switch, check if the inside is undamaged.
Mind there are little balls and springs inside so don't loose those.
Good luck
Philippe

That's the same logical conclusion I came too. I wouldn't look at anything else until the kill switch is checked out.

[Taffus]

looking at your picture Cas I think you have plugged the pale green connector in the wrong socket. I have an a4 which I convert from separate reg/rect to a combined PMC unit. This came with the same pale green plug. The green socket is for the regulator on the a4, the PMC unit is designed for a z1 (I'm not sure if their plugs are different colours) The white plug is where the 3 phase ac is from the 3 yellow wires from the stator (this is back wired from the blue plug on the right of my attached picture) . the 3 phase is rectified and controlled in the one unit. The black wire is the earth and white wire is the 12v output.
Z Power installation instructions do mention the plug on the new unit could be either white or green.
I have attached a picture of my setup and the z power instructions

[johny brando]

Think you have the white wires wrong, you should have the white feed from the battery with the double joint, into that goes white/red wire from the fuse box, and the white wire from behind the solonoid into the double joint, the other goes to the white feed wire from the reg / rec, that's how mine goes, no problems

I agree with Dave above............... on mine = A single white wire comes out of the Harness goe's to the supply side of the 20 amp fuse ... & comes out the other side as a Red / White and splits into a double bullet connector... from that- 1 runs to the solenoid live and the other side to Rect/Regulator ( I run a Wet Dream 6 wire combined Rect/ Reg unit ) Cheers.

[ZedHead]

Z900-A4WiringDiagram.jpg (125.75 KiB) Viewed 4224 times

I maybe able to offer some explanation here.

Combined reg/rec's only need to be fed with the 3 yellow AC phases from the alternator and be earthed by a single black wire to the back of the engine. Ignore the brown wire going to the orginal regulator.

The 3 AC can come from either the white rectifier connector or the green regulator connector. However the pin configurations are different and needs to be checked to match the replacement reg/rec wiring.

The only remaining wire from the regulator is the positive output from the regulator. This simply replaces the white wire that used to come from the rectifier into the twin bullet connector to feed the solenoid and battery direct and the ignition switch via the 20 A fuse.

Since the bike has not been run, none of this is likely to be the cause of the fault Steve has, which is 100% caused by a short to the body of kill switch when in the run position only.

[BigZCas]

Hello Dave,
You are correct, I tried the same switch on another bike and the same thing happens, the 20amp fuse popped .
And so it is conclusive, the fault is with the kill switch.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

[ZedHead]

Hello Dave,
You are correct, I tried the same switch on another bike and the same thing happens, the 20amp fuse popped .
And so it is conclusive, the fault is with the kill switch.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

It was the only logical conclusion Steve.

To follow up on Taffus post, I would lift the electrical plate and check which pins the yellow, pink and blue wires feed on the the white and green connectors. Making sure they correspond with the AC feeds to your reg/rec. On the Z1, the pins are identical for these wires on both connectors but the z900 could be different. The diagrams do not follow any order so offer no help in this respect.

[Taffus]

Hello Dave,
You are correct, I tried the same switch on another bike and the same thing happens, the 20amp fuse popped .
And so it is conclusive, the fault is with the kill switch.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

It was the only logical conclusion Steve.

To follow up on Taffus post, I would lift the electrical plate and check which pins the yellow, pink and blue wires feed on the the white and green connectors. Making sure they correspond with the AC feeds to your reg/rec. On the Z1, the pins are identical for these wires on both connectors but the z900 could be different. The diagrams do not follow any order so offer no help in this respect.

Might give it go tomorrow if the weather is better (pissing down here!)
The Zpower instructions were correct for the fitment of the reg/rect

[ZedHead]

Hello Dave,
You are correct, I tried the same switch on another bike and the same thing happens, the 20amp fuse popped .
And so it is conclusive, the fault is with the kill switch.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

It was the only logical conclusion Steve.

To follow up on Taffus post, I would lift the electrical plate and check which pins the yellow, pink and blue wires feed on the the white and green connectors. Making sure they correspond with the AC feeds to your reg/rec. On the Z1, the pins are identical for these wires on both connectors but the z900 could be different. The diagrams do not follow any order so offer no help in this respect.

Might give it go tomorrow if the weather is better (pissing down here!)
The Zpower instructions were correct for the fitment of the reg/rect

Taffus, if I am following this right you have plugged the regulator into the white plug. Whereas, the Zpower intructions say leave the white blank and use the green. If nothing else it would suggest that the AC feeds on both connectors are the same in any case.