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Low Compression = Pi**ed Off

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z1000puddin
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1015 barrels

#31 PostAuthor: z1000puddin » Mon Sep 05, 2011 5:59 pm

Dogs,
You were correct re the barrels I got from USA.
#4 liner is loose in the bore !! :??

I can push it out with a light tap

Is there any easy fix ??

Stu
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Pigford
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#32 PostAuthor: Pigford » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:26 pm

no :??
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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#33 PostAuthor: Pigford » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:27 pm

no :??
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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z1000puddin
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#34 PostAuthor: z1000puddin » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:36 pm

Well I got my new rings fitted Thursday.
Head back on & valve timing set - had a bit of an issue with this !!

I thought I had checked & double checked this -I turned the motor over slowly by hand a couple of times after letting go of the cam chain tensioner.
Nothing jamming up and the timing marks & TDC #1&4 all lining up good.

Plugs in & kick start a couple of times and :?? the motor jammed ffffffffkkkk
Bent valves I thought FFFFFFFKK

After kicking a couple of innocent things about the garage I calmed down a bit and decided to check for sure.

I was just about to whip the head off,but a little voice said - RESET the timing and check again - Got nothing to lose.

So went through all this again and stuck me thumb over the plug holes and --GOOD compression on each pot !!!
Bloody thing started first press of the button.

I think my cam chain must have slipped, but I know I checked by turning the motor over a good few times.
I was amazed that I didnt bend any valves.

Anyway enough rambling, Bike is running good,plugs are like #17 , 20 & #22 on the plug check chart.
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I have not done a compression check yet,but will do this week & then to fine tune the carbs.

Best of all it isnt like chuffin train now
Did about 130 miles on Saturday afternoon , so all going well apart from a couple of very small oil weeps from them stupid alloy billet cam end plugs.

Stu
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#35 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:43 pm

remove the liner + give it a good coating with some Kawasaki three bond once the cylinder head is fitted it shouldn't really move. i have done this on a gpz 1100

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#36 PostAuthor: z1000puddin » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:58 pm

Pigford - That seemed a very Confident NO NO NO ?? Have you tried this before ?? with poor results ?

Z1b - Would the kawabond handle the temp/force ?

I was thinking of slightly scoring the ally barrels & smearing an epoxy like devcon

Stu
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#37 PostAuthor: Pigford » Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:03 pm

Nothing to lose giving it a go - but the "100% proper" answer is - it could lead to catastrophic failure :| ...but who knows, each case is different :shock:

Once a liner moves it wears the barrel surface (from interference fit to more of a sliding fit?) and will be prone to slipping again. If a good hi-temp bonding agent is used, it may well work OK - let us know what you use & how it goes :wink:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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z1000puddin
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#38 PostAuthor: z1000puddin » Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:18 pm

I may heed your advice.
I am now thinking of welding the inner alloy barrels and machine this back for an interfrence fit.
Do you know if there is a tolerance +/- ?

I have access to the equipment & a couple of decent machine shops locally.

It will be a while before I am ready to do this,I have yet to buy the 1075 piston kit.

I intend to build a spare engine with 1075,1mm oversize valves, hi-lift cams,welded crank,undercut gearbox.

So It will take a few months to get most of the remaining parts

Will let you know once I start
stu
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#39 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:33 pm

three bond if applied to the outside of the liner + the surface is completely covered should be ok . temperature wise it should cope as it is used on all Kawasaki engines. but i suppose it depends on how loose the liner is

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#40 PostAuthor: z1000puddin » Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:36 pm

Z1b,
I can knock the liner out with my Hand/fist with medium force.
Stu
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#41 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:50 pm

i think that might be a little too loose . you would be better of getting i liner made to fit that cylinder rather than getting it welded. pj engineering in Wolverhampton + SEP at kegworth should be able to give some good advise


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