Engine advice

[Rob Lafferty]

Just started the strip and rebuild of the engine as it has not been run for 15 years and really need to know what buts should be replaced no matter what they condition they are in.

There has been oil in the engine all the time and all the parts taken off so far have been coated in a film of oil so they all look in resonable condition.

The rubbers on the camchain wheels have gone hard and look they need to be changed, but what about the cham chain and the wheels (i hope not as that is and ouch in the pocket).

Have taken off the barrels and all parts i can do so far, hopefully can finish the strip down tomorrow.

Thanks for any advice.

Oops - wrong section - i deserve what i get !!!!!

[FER]

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[Steve R]

Hi Rob,

When I stripped mine took anything I though might need looking at to SEP engineering near Donnington where I had the rebore and a couple of broken fins welding.
They were happy to look at all the cam wheels rubber blocks etc and prescribe them healthy or not. I only stripped the top end off so I measured the cam chain, there are figures in the clymer manual as to how much stretch is within tolerance.
The one thing that is really definatly worth changing is the cam chain guide at the front, not expensive and they do break!

[Rob Lafferty]

Steve

Thanks for that. Do you have anumber for them as i also have a fin that is broken, allough i do not have the broken bit.

Rob

[Al]

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/index.php ... iew&idev=2

Rob SEP and most others are listed in the links section at top right of the page.
Its the icon that looks like an empty purse.

AL

See you tomorrow or Thursday.

[Steve Cooke]

Rob, as Steve has said the front guide blade is a known weak point so I would change that as a matter of course, also all the little idler mounting rubbers which I think you've done, these parts cost peanuts so it would be soft not to renew them, personally I would renew the camchain as they are fairly inexpensive and you should certainly renew the valve stem oil seals, the bottom roller is not too expensive but the top ones are so you would have to make a calculated decision on those but what I would say is the original rubber mounted idlers are difficult to assess by eye as the rubber does harden to plastic and they can collapse as a result it may be better to factor in any known mileage when making that decision.
PS. Check and restore if needed all threads especially the plug threads whilst the head is off, also as It's not run for fifteen years make sure you clean the valve stems prior to fitting new seals otherwise any crude that may have hardened on the stem will immediately scuff the new seals.

[Rob Lafferty]

Thanks for the advice on the camchain and rollers. I will look at them closley and change all the rubber bits.

Not sure of the milage as no speedo with bike.

When i have split the crankcases is there any thing else to be aware of or should i just change all the bearings and seals while im there.

Also i will check clutch plates while im at it.

[Steve Cooke]

I'd get an engine seal kit which are relatively cheap and check all bearings, the main bearings are usually good but the output shaft bearing takes some stick and the main clutch bearing is prone to cause clutch rumble, as your doing a complete split it pays to do what you can but most of us have to draw the line somewhere.

[Steve R]

Hi Rob,

If you are splitting the crankcase then def. change the camchain, they are cheap and its the fact the engine has to come all apart that makes it expensive to do.

SEP do not need the broken piece to build the fin back up and its not too expensive either.

If you are going to tune the engine in the future then nows the time to have the crank welded, also consider ape studs and nuts as they are HD and can help against leaks.

Also can not recommend Steve Smetherst for cleanng the cases see his web site its a very different process not only very clean but seems to stay that way!

http://www.aloh.co.uk/Pages/faq.htm