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ignition timing z1a
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:18 pm
Author: z1bman
hi guys anyone had this problem when trying to set the ignition timing on a Z1A. the bike has pattern coils + points backplate assembly / new genuine i think ? advance + retard . the problem is if i set the points gap at 14 thou + then strobe it to align the F mark on the advancer the points backing plate hardly does anything to the adjustment. the only way i can get near the timing marks is to open up the points gap. when the timing marks are aligned this obviously gives me a massive points gap of 30 thou. the main points backplate has had the three mounting holes elongated by the previous owner
also if i set the points with a gap of 14 thou + strobe it the ignition timing is about 25/30 degrees retarded . i have checked the T mark on the advancer alignment when on TDC + it seems to line up with the mark in the points casing. any suggestions appreciated
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:27 pm
Author: KeithZ1R
Might be wrong here but sounds like the points heel is well worn new points ? anybody

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:35 pm
Author: Pigford
Save the effort and fit a Dyna S

The poinst will need adjusting every few hundred miles anyhow

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:43 pm
Author: irhobotolo
I have a Z1 and have been farting around with points and timing for hours on end. I bought a pattern points plate with condensers etc on it and couldnt get the timing right without elongating the slots. SO ! I bought the same thing from the US but NOS original parts. Same problem. So I thought the advancer is wrong so I swapped that. Same problem !
All this time the bike is running but its like a bag of shyte.
To cut a long story short I bought a Dyna S ignition from Z1Enterprises which does away with points and condensers. I fitted it in half an hour and its like having a new engine !!!! Timing is spot on and it made me wonder why I didnt just do it to start with (and saved me hours of pulling hair out).
Just an oppinion here but but I wouldnt waste your time with points when you can fit a much better system and then forget it.
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:52 pm
Author: steve bowdler
I ran dyna s till it went tits up kept failing when engine got hot, back on points now no probs ,though will prob fit my new dyna s over winter.

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:53 pm
Author: paul doran
Pigford wrote:Save the effort and fit a Dyna S

The poinst will need adjusting every few hundred miles anyhow

since when ?
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:00 pm
Author: Pigford
paul doran wrote:Pigford wrote:Save the effort and fit a Dyna S

The poinst will need adjusting every few hundred miles anyhow

since when ?
Since they were invented..... and every manufacturer switched to pointless/electronic ignition systems
I've had loads of bikes with points (including Zeds) and they are always a PITA
Its a FACT that the Dyna S is more efficient, easier to set, stays in tune and gives a stronger spark
Anything else you need to know Paully

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:02 pm
Author: paul doran
I run My A4,Z1A and Z1B on points all run as smooth as silk and I honestly cannot remember when I had to adjust any of their points
I happen to believe if set up correctly they can run very well
I do agree Dyna are good but it,s down to preference with Me
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:06 pm
Author: Pigford
I love the idea of an old bike running with points - simples - but in reality I've never had much luck with them..... probably my lack of skill
Worst bike were my GT750, GT550 and me Trumpet - even the Boyer system was 10 x better than the points

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:12 pm
Author: KeithZ1R
Just makes you wonder how we developed the internal combustion engine ignition system

..... Oh that was it we used a set of contact breaker points

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:14 pm
Author: Pigford
KeithZ1R wrote:Just makes you wonder how we developed the internal combustion engine ignition system

..... Oh that was it we used a set of contact breaker points

.... and total loss oil systems

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:16 pm
Author: pertonpc
I time my two by using the test light method as per Haynes manual.
Fit a bulb to the points spring blade and to ground on cylinder head - the bulb should light just as it gets to the F mark... if not move the points plate and/ or the points adjusters until it does.
Seems to give me better results than strobe timing - even when I have borrowed expensive strobes.
Just make sure you are doing the correct set of ponts for the markings that appear in the window.
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:47 pm
Author: Pigford
pertonpc wrote:I time my two by using the test light method as per Haynes manual.
Fit a bulb to the points spring blade and to ground on cylinder head - the bulb should light just as it gets to the F mark... if not move the points plate and/ or the points adjusters until it does.
Seems to give me better results than strobe timing - even when I have borrowed expensive strobes.
Just make sure you are doing the correct set of ponts for the markings that appear in the window.
........and what about checking the dwell angle

Mystic Black Art

Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:14 pm
Author: z1bman
i have tried the bulb test + strobe test but still end up with a points gap on 1+4 set of points being 30 thou + 2+3 points gap being 20 thou ? i have done a bit of research + the early type z1 has a different advancer?
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:37 pm
Author: Pigford
....should still be able to set/time it properly, as the advance had a different "curve", not effecting thesetting of the gap....