A few years back I was having trouble getting valve clearances, the exhaust valve seats were badly worn, I am guessing that running straight through pipes didn't help here (see previous post) There is only so far you can go grinding shims and tipping valves so I decided to bite the bullet and spend some beer tokens on sorting out the problem.
There are two ways to go from here, either a replacement head - now I'm not 100% sure on this and stand to be corrected..... but I believe that the heads and cam bearing caps are line bored, no mix 'n match here then. Based on this I am of the opinion that unless you can find a head complete with the cam caps don't bother.
Alternatively........ get the valve seats replaced.
There is a wizard of a motor engineer over in Thornton on the Fylde coast who I have used in the past. He's an old school guy and just walking into his workshop is a humbling experience full of lathes, milling machines, surface grinders, boring machines and all sorts of other good stuff. He made and fitted 8 new seats, fitted new valve guides and honed the barrels. For this work he relieved me of £380, a fair price when you consider that it keeps the engine authentic and you basically have a new head to go at. Now back on 3.00+ shims all round.
That was winter 2009, since then the bike has done around 3000 miles with no issues to report other than changing a couple of shims as things bed in.
Contact details for anyone interested
Dave Burton Engineering
Thornton
FY5 4HH
01253 868111
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Worn valve seats
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- Location: Preston, Lancashire
You are correct, the caps and head were done that way, however if you know what you are doing you can use cam caps from one head on a different one, it's precision work with very close tolerances but can be done no problem once care and time is taken.
Anyone who scraps a Z head just for that would be mad.
Anyone who scraps a Z head just for that would be mad.
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- Regular Poster
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- Joined: 11th May 2012
- Location: Preston, Lancashire
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