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Anyone install tapered bearings?

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KenC

#1 PostAuthor: KenC » Sat Oct 22, 2005 12:44 am

I have bought some triple tree tapered bearings. I removed the old bearings and races, how do the new tapered ones install? I havn't got them yet but they should be coming soon. Is it fairly self explanitory?

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ash
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#2 PostAuthor: ash » Sat Oct 22, 2005 7:16 am

Very easy, bigger cup at the bottom square it up knock it in with a block of wood and a hammer, same for the top, bearings can only go on one way, biggest at the bottom with the taper facing up drift it on using a hollow shaft bigger than the triple tree shaft or use a pair of grips resting on the bearing and knock it on gently, top bearing rests in before you put top yoke on, easy peezee

Mark O C

#3 PostAuthor: Mark O C » Sat Oct 22, 2005 2:50 pm

They go in even easier if you shove 'em in the freezer first for an hour or three.

KenC

#4 PostAuthor: KenC » Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:29 pm

Cool, thanks for the replies. I was just removing the old ones and thought it was strange to fit the tapper in a squared off hole. I like the freezer trick, shrink it up a little.

Bruce Sexton

#5 PostAuthor: Bruce Sexton » Mon Oct 24, 2005 7:04 am

Always works, don't forget the bottom yoke goes in the freezer and not the part of the bearing that fits onto the bottom of the yoke or you will shrink the wrong part and make it harder to fit.

Bruce

Ed Z1-R
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#6 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:10 pm

oe bearings have larger surface area to be knocked out. in comparison taper do not. so if they at a later date have to be removed its a pig of o job to do.this i have experienced.so if two groves are filed into seating face of each end of headstock opposite each other where bearing will sit it aids to get a drift in just to tap them out

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FER
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#7 PostAuthor: FER » Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:28 pm

If you run a weld round the inside of bearing race it falls out no problem . Does mean you have to buy new ones though .
fer


(Edited by FER at 7:44 pm on Oct. 25, 2005)

Ed Z1-R
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#8 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:31 pm

check for any damage in bore of headstock ie raised metal from removal or ill refitment of bearings as this can cause diffulty in re fit. cure is take a needle file to raised score marks gently till smoothed down. wipe out swarf oil bearing drive back in for this i got a socket shaped driver machined for me out of steel just smaller than diameter of bearings tap bearing in and listen to the sound its hollow. when you here a solid sound that notes the bearing is sat on its seat

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#9 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:37 pm

ive done that one fer meself it works a treat but watch the paint job y,all. just incase if bike still built up and you use arc remove battery

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ash
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#10 PostAuthor: ash » Tue Oct 25, 2005 8:39 pm

Glad we aint talking about removel of a BRAIN cell,

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Garn 1
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#11 PostAuthor: Garn 1 » Wed Oct 26, 2005 12:26 am

Ed, I like that groove idea, for later removal.
Fer, I've seen them removed by three arc welds equidistant on the innermost surface of the bearing to be removed. I guess it works as well as welding all around that surface.

The only thing I can add, is to make sure you save the shim and the rubber washer/seal on the bottom of the steering stem.

Bruce Sexton

#12 PostAuthor: Bruce Sexton » Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:34 am

Ash, brain cell removal is far easier and more enjoyable.

Bruce

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ash
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#13 PostAuthor: ash » Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:35 am

Do you reckon Brucie Babe, not come across many good Brain cells on here :biggrin:

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#14 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:55 pm

so am i!guess that can be tricky too.

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FER
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#15 PostAuthor: FER » Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:54 pm

If you removed Ash's remaining brain cell he may be able to join a H****a owners club .
fer


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