Z1OwnersClub GB

hello gents any tips on bleeding the anti dive brake system on a gpz 1100 or is it a pretty straight forward operation. many thanks in adavnce john

Not any help I'm afraid, but did this set up work??

I've read many articles saying it was just an "eighties gimmick" that all the manufacturers meddled with.

I had an 82 gs1100e back in the early 90s,anyway I eliminated the anti dive stuff from frontend .
My brakes worked 100% better after eliminating the anti dive since it was plumbed through brake system origionally

I "THINK" the theory behind it is, when the brake line is pressurised it resrticts the compression side of the damper to "hydraulicly lock" the forks????

jimmock wrote:Not any help I'm afraid, but did this set up work??

I've read many articles saying it was just an "eighties gimmick" that all the manufacturers meddled with.

It does work, and as you say was a feature of many bikes in the early eighties. As with turbos and other 'developments' of the time, it was deemed to be not really necessary however, and was discontinued.

johnA wrote:hello gents any tips on bleeding the anti dive brake system on a gpz 1100 or is it a pretty straight forward operation. many thanks in adavnce john

Fairly straightforward on my 900R John - just work from the top down and do the caliper itself last. Once done I tend to repeat 'just to check' with so many bleed points. If the system wont 'prime' though, use a large syringe like this to suck most of the air out, and pull fluid down ( make sure you top up the master cylinder as you do this ).

Ive had better luck replacing the thin ass fork oil that Kawasaki recommends with 30w synthetic motor oil,does wonders for compression side of front ends

If your anti dive units need overhauling you can buy kits from Craig on the GPz900R forum.


www.gpzzone.co.uk

Gary.