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1000a1 removing rear wheel bearings

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Hasbeen
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1000a1 removing rear wheel bearings

#1 PostAuthor: Hasbeen » Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:09 pm

Hi. Hoping for inspiration. Am trying to replace old wheel bearings. Have removed seal and circlip but can't get any decent contact on bearing to drift it out because it's tight against the hub sleeve 42010-030. Any help appreciated

1962royp
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#2 PostAuthor: 1962royp » Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:06 pm

Try using a rawlbolt by screwing into the bearing then you can knock it out with a drift
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Hasbeen
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#3 PostAuthor: Hasbeen » Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:32 pm

Never thought of that. Cheers will let u know how I get on. Bugger of a job!!!!

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PAULJAC47
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#4 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:35 pm

I use a half round punch to get on the lip of the old bearing,push the spacer to one side to get purchase on lip of bearing..
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Jumbo
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Re: z1000 a1

#5 PostAuthor: Jumbo » Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:51 pm

1962royp wrote:Try using a rawlbolt by screwing into the bearing then you can knock it out with a drift


I have done this also. If you get a decent sized bolt in then knock it out.
LE to JOG on a z900

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Hasbeen
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#6 PostAuthor: Hasbeen » Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:55 pm

Not wanting to berate our beloved zeds but it's a sh#te design.
Will pick a rawlbolt up tomorrow and give it a whirl. Ta for replies guys as ever.

Nick

1962royp
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#7 PostAuthor: 1962royp » Thu Jun 18, 2015 7:26 am

I can get them out with a drift but we are not all Mechanics are we thats why i suggested the rawlbolt it makes it easy for someone that doesnt fix things all the time.
Get the threaded bar type not the bolt you can use it with a big socket and another nut and pull it out if you so wish .
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99% Gpz1100 unitrac Nearly there runs just needs paint.
1100 Zephyr Project.
1981 KZ1000 LTD

kev edwards
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#8 PostAuthor: kev edwards » Thu Jun 18, 2015 7:26 am

Same design the world over, it's just that most of us are too tight to buy the correct tools for the job, so we therefore improvise and moan about the poor design. :lol:

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#9 PostAuthor: Hasbeen » Thu Jun 18, 2015 8:00 am

What's the correct tool for the job?. I work in engineering. Have access to presses lathes etc but still can't get a clean purchase on the bearing to drift or press it out. Am gonna try the rawbolt method when I can get my hands on one the correct size

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Hinckley
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#10 PostAuthor: Hinckley » Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:19 pm


kev edwards
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#11 PostAuthor: kev edwards » Thu Jun 18, 2015 1:40 pm

Hasbeen wrote:What's the correct tool for the job?. I work in engineering. Have access to presses lathes etc but still can't get a clean purchase on the bearing to drift or press it out. Am gonna try the rawbolt method when I can get my hands on one the correct size


Must be civil engineering :wink: , Hinkley's got it right

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z1000puddin
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#12 PostAuthor: z1000puddin » Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:55 pm

All I do is run a weld around the bearing.this heat shrinks the bearing race and it more or less falls out
Okay procedure if you have a welder😉

Stu
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#13 PostAuthor: tedsonthezed » Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:24 pm

No need to spend hundreds on the correct tool. I recently bought this set to do the wheel and swing arm bearings on my ZRX.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9PC-BLIND-HOL ... 3396357356

What a bloody delight to use the right tool for the job, rather than bodge away with anything you can find - larger wheel axle on later bikes also means that the rawbolt method doesn't apply.
You want how much?

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#14 PostAuthor: needaz1100r » Fri Jun 19, 2015 8:20 pm

z1000puddin wrote:All I do is run a weld around the bearing.this heat shrinks the bearing race and it more or less falls out
Okay procedure if you have a welder😉

Stu


OK on a head race tapered cup, never heard of it on a wheel bearing, I guess you weld into the bearing run?
Cheers,

Mark.


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