Which electronic ignition?

[ROZZER]

Any advice on best electronic ignition system for a Z1B.
I fancy getting a system that comes with coils to ensure best sparks /reliability possible.
Want the bike to look stock externally so I don't want any garish leads.
Have read various threads about Dyna systems coming with incorrect rotors - any comments?
What about Boyer Bransden systems?
Best place to purchase (Cheap/reliable delivery/Member discounts etc)?

[Jerry]

There's a lot of guys on here who would have nothing else than a Dyna - and they are pretty infallible. I've never had any problems with Pirahna/Newtronic, although I've heard they've recently been bought out. DON'T buy a poxy Boyer Bransden.

[Steve R]

Hi John,

I fitted Dyna ignition and coils last winter and its probable that you have read about the problems I had either on here or on the kz rider website. They have had a quality control problem resulting in the pick ups being positioned incorrectly. This makes it impossible to time up. Dyna themselves were completly useless in trying to sort this, there customer service is NON existant.
However I bought mine through Jeff at z1 enterprises in america, the strong dollar makes the prices very good.

Jeff could not have been more helpfull even sending me a replacement before I sent mine back. The new one is fine and the bike definatly runs better with it fitted.
Would I buy another: Yes but I would make sure I bought it from someone like Jeff or Steve at Debbens in case there was a problem.
With regards to wires the wire going into the points housing is light grey, so noticibly not standard. I am sure it would not be too hard to make it black with some heat shrink.
the only other wires you can see are the plug wires and these you buy separate from the coils (they plug in so you can get them in black.)
Hope this helps if you want to discuss further ring me on 01535 272275
Regards
Steve R

[FER]

Only sensible way to go is DYNA . All our bikes run this system with no problems , fit it and forget it . I would recommend a DYNA 2000 system as this has coils as part of kit . It also has a range of adv / ret curves , a built in rev limmiter and timing light . If the grey wire is a problem then use black heatshrink . Get black plug leads and fit NGK caps or even the original metal caps to be a real anorak . Contact Jeff at Z1 enterprises , top bloke .
fer

[Pigford]

Second the previous commentary, had Boyer on me Z1000 (mildly tuned) and it ran OK, but I'm a Dyna fan, so I fitted the standard Dyna fitted (not 2000), and flogged the B B to a Zed member!
The B B stuff is theoretically better as the advance/retard is controlled by electronics, not weights!
If ordering a Dyna kit, just get supplier to double check trigger rotor is OK. The fitting of leads in the Dyna coils is like the old car coil fitting and easy to use any black leads, but if you want the best from your new kit, quality leads are recommended! In for a penny, in for a pound! :;):

[Jeff Saunders]

Steve R - after the problems you encountered, Dynatek reengineered the Dyna-S. It's too early to know for sure if the previous problem will have disappeared, but so far so good.

Mechanical ignition advancers. There are at least 3 different advancers you see on the Z1 and z1000's thru 1980. The early Z1's run a 5/40 advancer - this means the bike fires at 5 degrees and then the spark advances to 40 degrees at full advance (around 3,000 rpm). At frame number Z1F-032818 Kawasaki changed the advancer (and the carbs) - the advancer switched to a 20/40 advancer resulting in a much smoother idle. For some of the 79/80 z1000's you will find a 15/40 advancer fitted (not sure exactly when this happened as these bikes are far too new for me...).

Because of these differences, it's best to check what advancer is on your bike.

Our web site has pictures of the Z1 advancers to help.
Dyna-S for the Z1

If you have a 5/40 advancer you WILL need the 3A rotor for the DS2-1 ignition. These rotors are set 10 degrees different from the usual rotor in the Dyna-S.

With the 15/40 advancers you may need the 3A - when you time a bike with the 15/40 advancer, the adjustment range is all the way to one side

[Ed Z1-R]

Its like this...
i cannot comment on Dyna as not used said system.
i found Newtronic/Pirahnna systems wires were thin/poxy and a pain to fit connectors to.
On the Z1-R (standard motor) i fitted the B.B. system with their coils. to fit the coils was fiddely(had to make extra brackets) and all was a close fit,the wires were suitable to fit connectors.
the connectors supplied were naff : so binned them.

from the off one coil was faulty,i had puchased the kit over 12 months previously,when i rang BB and explained etc i sent the coil for them to test,they then sent me a replacement coil

for me its been so far apart from the faulty coil, problem free
guess its horses for courses the choice is yours

[rickman CRR]

Ah well.......The fine art of points adjustment with feeler guages and fag paper will be lost to a whole generation.....lol

aye right....dyna is good kit.

[hanskloss]

I have Dyna S bought from Jeff, fit and forget as mentioned allready, there is nothing electronic in DynaS so not much to break down, it basically replaces the points and can be used with stock coils, I've fitted Dyna coils and wires as well with old fashioned and better looking in my op NGK caps, only problem with the coils was that the +terminals were too close (about one milimeter) to the fixing bolts and had to use some extra isolation there just to stay on a safe side

[ROZZER]

Thanks for the feedback, sounds like Dyna is the route I should take. As the Dyna 2000 ditches the mech advance / retard mechanism, I would have thought this to be better than retaining the original mech unit which is bound to have worn/springs lose tension etc, hence affecting performance. Anyone any comments on the retention of the mech unit and using the standard Dyna set up - any issues encountered.
The standard Dyna system will be cheaper I'm just concerned about the retention of the mech adv/ret unit. The money I've put into this bike recently I can't afford to make a wrong choice.

Fer - Personally I don't own an anorak or count rivets, just don't want some garish coloured HT leads spoiling the look of the bike - like the Zed thou I spotted parked up in Windermere this summer sporting pink leads, anyone owning up to that one?
As for the original metal clad plug caps, we all know where they should be put and it ain't on a bike.
Mind you someone recently spent ?350 on ebay for a new set so a suppose we don't all think the same way.

[Pigford]

If you can afford it, ditch the mechanical advance! Its just something else to wear out and as you rightly say, can cause BIG problems! Or, buy a new advance unit every few years!