Can't rotate engine backwards

[ChrisB]

no, haven't tried that yet but when the cover is on loose with screws in but just locating on the dowels it still turns backwards.

[z1bman]

if it was anything to to with crank not running central it would do it either way you turn the crank

[z1bman]

does it do the same if you remover the starter motor & the small gear ?

[ChrisB]

In another hamfisted attempt at building my special i accidentally shorted out the battery on the frame for significant enough a time to goose the battery. Was replacing with lighter lithium ion one anyway but latterly noticed that the starter motor now feels very tight. Suspect the worst there but have a spare motor which i'll stick in and hopefully cure the turning backwards conundrum at last!
Have just asked in another thread if there is a safe way to remove the camchain tensioner body without upsetting the cam timing as i can't get the starter motor out without removing at least the side nut on the tensioner.

[ChrisB]

so to conclude this issue for anyone who may have been interested, it was a thrust washer on the starter idler gear (not even shown on Partzilla so maybe shouldn't have been on the shaft!), it was trapping the gear against the casings as was a fairly large thing. Anyone know if it should have been there? It would (does) stop the hub of the gear wearing the alluminium of the cases.

[z1bman]

if you mean the gear that is in direct contact with the starter motor then no it shouldn't have any shim / washers

[ChrisB]

so that idler gear just floats between the engine case and the generator cover on its shaft?

[zed1015]

so that idler gear just floats between the engine case and the generator cover on its shaft?

Yes.
It only spins with the starter.
once running the idler is stationary.

[johny brando]

so that idler gear just floats between the engine case and the generator cover on its shaft?

Lee again ..........WOW I've just read the 2 pages on your post from above - Engine won't turn backwards & hard to spin too !!!!!!! I'm gobsmacked as people are trying to help you there but no one is really understanding or has put you straight sooner & your unknowingly getter into trouble there !
No wonder........you where asking me those questions !!!!!!!! it seems like you have mixed up the starter clutch shims & spread em around where don't belong Chris !!!!! blimey your on mission to destruction my friend ...no disrespect intended Chris but your right out of your depth there. 10/10 for having a go my friend but you should be doing it with a fully mechanical competent Zed enthusiast man at your side ...& him explaining all the inner workings - danger zones- whys & what if's as there is just way too many blind alley's & specialist knowledge needed to venture inside a pair of Zed crankcases. Also you must define exactly what engine family you have Z1 -Z900- Z1000 a1- Z1000 a2 - Mk2 1000 etc ,etc ,etc as there are some very real difference inside them !
I'm a originally a North London lad ( 61 now ) & had 900 Kawasaki for last 43 years but I'm in Australia now & have been here the last 25 years ! & can only you help so much . If I were you this is what I recommend you do mate.
Read absorb & action my last email Chris ...GET A MANUAL this is SO important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Then hire -borrow or steal a Dial gauge & a magnetic stand for it - Read , ask & Google how to use it - Set it up via a little steel 90 degree plate that you'll have to fabricate & then attach it to say 2 screw hole that normally your generator cover is normally attached to on your crankcases ....It doe's matter if it's set vertical or horizontally as it will work & hold magnetically no matter what way it sits but it has to have rigid - solid base for the Magnetic stand to actually sit on . Then set up the magnetic dial gauge base on it, so the Dial Gauge tip can run on Rotors outer horizontal face itself ( the dial gauge will needs to be able to run uninterrupted on a ALLOY face... NOT STEEL section of the rotor ( as would case all sort of issues if its on any magnetic steel at all ) so it must read accurately for the full 360 degree's revolution now with that set up you can measure the vertical run out on the crank & hopefully it will be OK... as SEP at Cogworth rebuilt my Zed crank for me 40 years ago & trust me there the best in the COUNTRY !!!! Your looking for no more run out than 4 thou or .01mm maximum.
If in doubt or you have more than that run out...ring up SEP & talk to them but tell them your experience level too ...don't try & pull the wool over their eye's ..cause you won't ! & I'm sure their still good people & will help if they can. Then if you have 4 thou or less run out.... you should be OK to continue putting back together using your manual all the way .
Ok Chris tread slowly & carefully ...I don't wanna sound like a fucking know all "cause I'm not !" but I do know Zeds & I've built a lot of engines & bikes over the years . I,d also put a shout on the forum to see there's any one knowledgeable near you as maybe they'd help you as I would if I was there....don't too proud or shy to ask .....zed1050 on the forum ( Rob ) is very knowledgeable guy ...so you can trust all he say's to be sound too & I won't cast dispersions on any one in the forum as most are really good guys. Good luck mate. Lee

[johny brando]

so that idler gear just floats between the engine case and the generator cover on its shaft?

Lee again ..........WOW I've just read the 2 pages on your post from above - Engine won't turn backwards & hard to spin too !!!!!!! I'm gobsmacked as people are trying to help you there but no one is really understanding or has put you straight sooner & your unknowingly getter into trouble there !
No wonder........you where asking me those questions !!!!!!!! it seems like you have mixed up the starter clutch shims & spread em around where don't belong Chris !!!!! blimey your on mission to destruction my friend ...no disrespect intended Chris but your right out of your depth there. 10/10 for having a go my friend but you should be doing it with a fully mechanical competent Zed enthusiast man at your side ...& him explaining all the inner workings - danger zones- whys & what if's as there is just way too many blind alley's & specialist knowledge needed to venture inside a pair of Zed crankcases. Also you must define exactly what engine family you have Z1 -Z900- Z1000 a1- Z1000 a2 - Mk2 1000 etc ,etc ,etc as there are some very real difference inside them !
I'm a originally a North London lad ( 61 now ) & had 900 Kawasaki for last 43 years but I'm in Australia now & have been here the last 25 years ! & can only you help so much . If I were you this is what I recommend you do mate.
Read absorb & action my last email Chris ...GET A MANUAL this is SO important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Then hire -borrow or steal a Dial gauge & a magnetic stand for it - Read , ask & Google how to use it - Set it up via a little steel 90 degree plate that you'll have to fabricate & then attach it to say 2 screw hole that normally your generator cover is normally attached to on your crankcases ....It doe's matter if it's set vertical or horizontally as it will work & hold magnetically no matter what way it sits but it has to have rigid - solid base for the Magnetic stand to actually sit on . Then set up the magnetic dial gauge base on it, so the Dial Gauge tip can run on Rotors outer horizontal face itself ( the dial gauge will needs to be able to run uninterrupted on a ALLOY face... NOT STEEL section of the rotor ( as would case all sort of issues if its on any magnetic steel at all ) so it must read accurately for the full 360 degree's revolution now with that set up you can measure the vertical run out on the crank & hopefully it will be OK... as SEP at Cogworth rebuilt my Zed crank for me 40 years ago & trust me there the best in the COUNTRY !!!! Your looking for no more run out than 4 thou or .01mm maximum.
If in doubt or you have more than that run out...ring up SEP & talk to them but tell them your experience level too ...don't try & pull the wool over their eye's ..cause you won't ! & I'm sure their still good people & will help if they can. Then if you have 4 thou or less run out.... you should be OK to continue putting back together using your manual all the way .
Ok Chris tread slowly & carefully ...I don't wanna sound like a fucking know all "cause I'm not !" but I do know Zeds & I've built a lot of engines & bikes over the years . I,d also put a shout on the forum to see there's any one knowledgeable near you as maybe they'd help you as I would if I was there....don't too proud or shy to ask .....zed1050 on the forum ( Rob ) is very knowledgeable guy ...so you can trust all he say's to be sound too & I won't cast dispersions on any one in the forum as most are really good guys. Good luck mate. Lee

SHIT THIS WAS MEANT TO HAVE GONE OUT AS P.M. O, WELL TOO LATE NOW !

[needaz1100r]

so that idler gear just floats between the engine case and the generator cover on its shaft?

Lee again ..........WOW I've just read the 2 pages on your post from above - Engine won't turn backwards & hard to spin too !!!!!!! I'm gobsmacked as people are trying to help you there but no one is really understanding or has put you straight sooner & your unknowingly getter into trouble there !
No wonder........you where asking me those questions !!!!!!!! it seems like you have mixed up the starter clutch shims & spread em around where don't belong Chris !!!!! blimey your on mission to destruction my friend ...no disrespect intended Chris but your right out of your depth there. 10/10 for having a go my friend but you should be doing it with a fully mechanical competent Zed enthusiast man at your side ...& him explaining all the inner workings - danger zones- whys & what if's as there is just way too many blind alley's & specialist knowledge needed to venture inside a pair of Zed crankcases. Also you must define exactly what engine family you have Z1 -Z900- Z1000 a1- Z1000 a2 - Mk2 1000 etc ,etc ,etc as there are some very real difference inside them !
I'm a originally a North London lad ( 61 now ) & had 900 Kawasaki for last 43 years but I'm in Australia now & have been here the last 25 years ! & can only you help so much . If I were you this is what I recommend you do mate.
Read absorb & action my last email Chris ...GET A MANUAL this is SO important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Then hire -borrow or steal a Dial gauge & a magnetic stand for it - Read , ask & Google how to use it - Set it up via a little steel 90 degree plate that you'll have to fabricate & then attach it to say 2 screw hole that normally your generator cover is normally attached to on your crankcases ....It doe's matter if it's set vertical or horizontally as it will work & hold magnetically no matter what way it sits but it has to have rigid - solid base for the Magnetic stand to actually sit on . Then set up the magnetic dial gauge base on it, so the Dial Gauge tip can run on Rotors outer horizontal face itself ( the dial gauge will needs to be able to run uninterrupted on a ALLOY face... NOT STEEL section of the rotor ( as would case all sort of issues if its on any magnetic steel at all ) so it must read accurately for the full 360 degree's revolution now with that set up you can measure the vertical run out on the crank & hopefully it will be OK... as SEP at Cogworth rebuilt my Zed crank for me 40 years ago & trust me there the best in the COUNTRY !!!! Your looking for no more run out than 4 thou or .01mm maximum.
If in doubt or you have more than that run out...ring up SEP & talk to them but tell them your experience level too ...don't try & pull the wool over their eye's ..cause you won't ! & I'm sure their still good people & will help if they can. Then if you have 4 thou or less run out.... you should be OK to continue putting back together using your manual all the way .
Ok Chris tread slowly & carefully ...I don't wanna sound like a fucking know all "cause I'm not !" but I do know Zeds & I've built a lot of engines & bikes over the years . I,d also put a shout on the forum to see there's any one knowledgeable near you as maybe they'd help you as I would if I was there....don't too proud or shy to ask .....zed1050 on the forum ( Rob ) is very knowledgeable guy ...so you can trust all he say's to be sound too & I won't cast dispersions on any one in the forum as most are really good guys. Good luck mate. Lee

SHIT THIS WAS MEANT TO HAVE GONE OUT AS P.M. O, WELL TOO LATE NOW !

You didn't say anything wrong and it's good advice....