Z1OwnersClub GB

hi guys, I could do with a bit of help. I'm doing a good mate a favour, for his poorly brother inlaw who suffers from demensure . I'm trying to get his bike running, ive replaced the wiring harness all 4 parts of it including a new ignition switch, the 4 wire one. ive eventually getting it to turn over and start off the button. but as soon as I release the starter button, I stops. if I keep the button pressed I can rev it but on release it stops. its got me totally bamboozled but I'm sure its a fault staring me in the face. so I could do with some help guys. ive been on 8 months with it and its got my head done in. any ideas guys????

have you got battery voltage at the yellow/red wires at the ignition coils when the ignition is switched on ? if not you need to check the r/h switch . you can disconnect the switch & put a 12v feed to the yellow/red wires direct from the battery + then turn the ignition on & short the two main terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver if it starts you know your problem is within the switch wiring

Thanks. I'll try that

Sounds like the right hand handlebar switch is wired wrong and you've only got voltage going to the ignition when the starter button is pressed, could also be a poor connection within the switch.

checked the switch guys, and seems to be ok, i'm still bamboozled , any more thoughts????

frizzy wrote:checked the switch guys, and seems to be ok, i'm still bamboozled , any more thoughts????

did you disconnect the switch & follow the advise in my previous post ? the only thing that can be at fault is the ignition switch or the r/ switch as the coils are powered from the ignition switch to the kill button & starter button

Hi Frizzy
what z1bman wrote is correct!
When changing the main loom there can be a problem.
Sometimes a US loom and a UK right hand switch ( or the other way; UK loom and US switch) can cause the problem.
The wiring of the right hand switch is sometimes connected differently in the wiring loom of the switch itself. You can't see it. You only see it when you remove the black plastic around the wires.
I experienced it when I restored the Z1000ST-R! Strange but true.
Good luck with it!
GrtZ
Philippe

What bike is it? some zeds have a six wire ignition switch,if you are fitting a four wire jobby you need to make sure it mates up with the correct wires as you can plug a four wire into a six way socket a couple of ways.stick some pics up showing us the plugs and cable colours.Paul J

is the r/h switch the original? or a new pattern one ? has the kill switch been taken apart? or has it had a new starter button ? does the starter turn when the kill switch is off

here's a photo of the starter switch. with the ignition on & the kill switch in the run position the yellow / red wire should be live 12v+ the black wire which is the power supply to the solenoid should read 0 volts & 12v+ only when the starter button is pressed

thanks for the intrest guys, first of all, the owner provided a new loom as the old one had been butchered. then I had to get a new middle loom and rear loom and then ignition switch. its a 4 wire ignition switch. the colours of the wires on each junction box are the same colours going in and out. a colour wiring diagram might help as I don't think the colours do the same job as modern day colours. the bike has been fitted with electronic ignition with dynotech coils which I think on inspection and messing with the bike that the coil for 1 and 4 cylinders might be on the blink. however I have got all the lights working and indicators, so im slowly getting there, lol.

also guys the switches are new, but I will take the starter switch apart for further inspection

hi guys, checked out the switch, im still no further forward. any more ideas? I fell this problem will be simple and staring me in the face. but it has me baffled

did you check the voltage at the yellow / red on the starter button? it should be live when ignition is on & the kill switch in the run possition & when you press the button the black should be live

hi again, I disconnected the box connector for the r/h switches, turned on the ignition the red/yell wire was zero reading but the brown was 12v. any ideas?