Z1OwnersClub GB

I've had batteries that were working perfectly ok one day, then fail the next. Not even enough juice left to turn the engine over. It happens.

I've heard conflicting reports on the yellow Motobatt batteries, some swear by them, some wouldn't touch one with a barge pole.
A very good friend of mine, (a very good auto electrician) worked at a motorcycle place & they had nothing but trouble with that make of battery failing, so for that reason only I've never used them.

I'm guessing in most cases people on this forum use their bike occasionally, which in fairness is probably not the best way to treat a lead acid battery.
I have a lithium iron, (not lithium ion - they are different) on my Harley hog bobber thing because the CCA's for the physical size of the battery meant it fitted in the battery compartment & could crank the big capacity engine it has.
Lithium iron batteries are able to withstand being left discharged for a long period far better than a lead acid battery as I understand it. However, my primary reason for choosing one was space was limited & they have very high CCA's compared to a lead acid of a similar physical size.

You should check with a multi-meter that there is no drain on the battery when the ignition is OFF. If there is any sort of drain it could indicate a faulty rectifier and/or regulator depending upon what you have fitted to your bike.

I have sold loads without a problem. Just passing on what I have been told by suppliers

The simple rule is, look after an MF battery and keep it on a maintenance charger and you will have no problems. Let it go flat and it is scrap UNLESS you have a professional charger that can push out enough amps to break down the sulfation that has formed on the plates.

Just coming up to my 10th year fitted with yellow Motobatt, not a hint of bother even when bike isn’t used for 18months or more

I have just fitted one to my Speed Triple and I was prior aware that just a couple of years back that Mott Batt supposedly had batch's of failing batteries in large numbers , so I thought that to be a thing of the past now ??? perhaps it's just yet again ....a convenient regurgitated ...Get out of Jail Free excuse ??? I don't know ! They do seem to be either ' great or Shite ' ..with little middle ground. However I was told on purchasing mine that these AGM MotoBatts ( =these - Glass mat type batteries ) need to charged on specific AGM setting on the charger as they use a different type of charging process to a normal lead acid batteries ...much like those Lithium batteries are suppose to be charged on special charger too ....yeh I know !!! There's a lot of shite out there & I'm just sharing what I've been told too ....in the hope it may help out others a little. I am how-ever certain of this ......it is very favourable if your not using your bike for more than say a Month & if your battery is anything other than Lithium type)....... to get into a mindset & practise of always fully charging your battery at 1/10 or less of it's Amp/Hour rating or.... sulphating will occur & build up between the plates ....rendering it F@#$ed ! I seem to recall that Cat Weasel always had difficulty & issue's with electric-trickery too ........so it's not just us !
Over N Out . Johny B

rickm wrote:

chrisu wrote:I=e had a couple do that. Just ordered my first lithium battery to see how that goes.

I've recently looked into these, so I'd be keen to hear how this goes.
What did you order and from where?

Chris - any update on the lithium battery ?

nothing to report really - works a treat and turns over the 1200cc V twin a treat.

I did buy a lithium specific charger as well but it also does AGM and STD lead acid batteries so saves moving the one charger i already had around all the bikes.