Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Clutch housing/needle bearing/bushing would make sense all things considered
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
i would say your problem is the clutch basket
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Buzzard is set up to re-do clutch basket springs now, article in forthcoming mag.
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Crank, I've have my fair load of shite with these, though saying that all been shell type, the mains, they will give you the noise you've described as would number 3 wear, recon crank, plastigauge the mains obviously new don't know what're on now, poss brown, theyre colour coded, brown blue and black, you've got this far, so you might as well, don't forget it's little heart, the oil pump Happy New Year
More Smiles Per Mile
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Hi gpjes
in a Z1 engine the crackshaft has roller bearings, no shells...I think you're confusing it with another engine.
GrtZ
Philippe
in a Z1 engine the crackshaft has roller bearings, no shells...I think you're confusing it with another engine.
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Hi,
Checked the float on the looser of the rods.( Number 2 or 3) Original Kawasaki manual states normal lateral typically up to 0.4 mm. Considered above service limit at 0.6 Mine about 0.38 so towards the looser end of the scale.
Fortunately have a clutch basket which I've installed. Springs good on that one. Rotated the old one at speed and the larger of the springs just flopped about making a 'cyclic' sound.
Have just received a full secondhand gearbox from the States which looks great -bearings look great and feel slightly better than mine. May install this or swap bearings at least. Mine felt okay but these feel better.
Few questions about the gearbox.
1. Can the larger bearings secured only by the half- rings in the upper case spin in the alloy housings?
2.The recently acquired gearbox has a longer sprocket shaft. All the internal dimensions are the same just a longer shaft protruding out of the case upon which the sprocket is mounted. I'm presuming that this is a later shaft, extended in length to deal with the thicker 'O' ring chains available after 1973. Will this cause me a problem if I install it. Seems sensible to do so rather than mess with spacers.
Checked the float on the looser of the rods.( Number 2 or 3) Original Kawasaki manual states normal lateral typically up to 0.4 mm. Considered above service limit at 0.6 Mine about 0.38 so towards the looser end of the scale.
Fortunately have a clutch basket which I've installed. Springs good on that one. Rotated the old one at speed and the larger of the springs just flopped about making a 'cyclic' sound.
Have just received a full secondhand gearbox from the States which looks great -bearings look great and feel slightly better than mine. May install this or swap bearings at least. Mine felt okay but these feel better.
Few questions about the gearbox.
1. Can the larger bearings secured only by the half- rings in the upper case spin in the alloy housings?
2.The recently acquired gearbox has a longer sprocket shaft. All the internal dimensions are the same just a longer shaft protruding out of the case upon which the sprocket is mounted. I'm presuming that this is a later shaft, extended in length to deal with the thicker 'O' ring chains available after 1973. Will this cause me a problem if I install it. Seems sensible to do so rather than mess with spacers.
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
There are two part numbers for the output shaft, which supports your O ring theory. In which case I expect the extra length to be in the spline section.
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Hi PJONO
I've never noticed that the balbearings rotate in the cranckcases once they're bolted together
The longer output shaft could be from a MK2. Or you'll have to swap it with the original or you'll have to install a different nut and safety spacer (MK2 type).
I would use the old shafts and gears if they're not damaged, after all they're original and are "blended" into eachother. You can change the bearings, that's not a problem but I wouldn't use old ones, I would use new ones.
The output shaft of your Z1 should have a fine hole where the sprocket sits, that was ment to put a small metal rod through so that the little pump that provided the chain oil recieved it's power.
Good luck
Philippe
I've never noticed that the balbearings rotate in the cranckcases once they're bolted together
The longer output shaft could be from a MK2. Or you'll have to swap it with the original or you'll have to install a different nut and safety spacer (MK2 type).
I would use the old shafts and gears if they're not damaged, after all they're original and are "blended" into eachother. You can change the bearings, that's not a problem but I wouldn't use old ones, I would use new ones.
The output shaft of your Z1 should have a fine hole where the sprocket sits, that was ment to put a small metal rod through so that the little pump that provided the chain oil recieved it's power.
Good luck
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Hi Phillipe,
All good sense suggestions and advice. Think I'll do all the bearings properly down in the gearbox.
Had a pretty experienced engineer look at the rods and crank. Though not urgent he suggests its close to the service limit and may as well be checked over properly. Guess I may as well do it right.. I'd budgeted to to do it.
P
All good sense suggestions and advice. Think I'll do all the bearings properly down in the gearbox.
Had a pretty experienced engineer look at the rods and crank. Though not urgent he suggests its close to the service limit and may as well be checked over properly. Guess I may as well do it right.. I'd budgeted to to do it.
P
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Glad you're making some progress.
adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Philippe wrote:Hi gpjes
in a Z1 engine the crackshaft has roller bearings, no shells...I think you're confusing it with another engine.
GrtZ
Philippe
Yep Your right, just me, done a fair few, ours are good old pressed cranks
More Smiles Per Mile
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
Crank shaft sent away for check and report.See what it throws up. So that's now a bit of waiting game now. Will install new gearbox bearings and new clutch roller bearing to current gearbox. By doing this I feel I've covered all bases. It's a bike I intend to keep and ride for some years so it's fair enough. Will continue saga in due course. Theres other stuff I can be doing in the meantime. I typically like to do things/repairs in sequence as opposed to concurrently. Never know where the fault is if you've done loads of work -particularly electrical. Someone offering a brand spanking crank NOS on eBay £1295!
-
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1329
- Joined: 18th Jul 2008
- Location: Derbyshire/London
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
The NOS crank is being offered by Steve Debben of Debbens.
Regards
Steve
Regards
Steve
-
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1329
- Joined: 18th Jul 2008
- Location: Derbyshire/London
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
I stand corrected on the NOS crank,it's Steve Bateman(Ringwood)who is selling it.
Regards
Steve
Regards
Steve
Re: 1973 Z1-NOISE IN MOTOR
With the crank away decided to do loads of other stuff to the bike. New gearbox bearings right through. (Honestly don't think that these's anything wrong with the old one's. If anyones desperate for a good set get hold of me and we'll sort something)
Replaced full wiring loom as the old one had been 'butchered'. In one 12 inch section of loom there were 8 solder repairs on three wires. How the ******. Anyway the loom was aged and knackered. Took me a day to reconfigure all the remaining creative wiring back to stock.
Here's a question -how unhelpful is it to reproduce the wiring diagram for the bike in the Haynes, Clymer and Genuine Service book in black and white. Just makes life awkward for the sake of it. Much easier to refer to the coloured one on the owners manual Anyway everything is working well after major reconfiguration.
Been replacing seat cover this evening. Struggled with appropriate adhesive .Didn't want to use standard contact adhesive as apparently it reacts with the vinyl and returns the impact adhesive to a gooey mess in a matter of weeks due to the it having a reaction with the vinyl. Have used simple UHU. Appears to have done the job. Works great. (Maybe, time will tell) Allows you sufficient time to tweak and manipulate the edges as it steadily goes off over a shortish period (Wife recommended this as she's done similar stuff with vinyl in the past. (Yup- I can hear the brains ticking over - but it was repairing some PVC seats not her dominatrix kit!) We'll see, I'm fully expecting one day that as I accelerate away it'll slip off. Perhaps she's simply wanting rid of me.
Wheel bearings waiting to to be done. Head to be inspected. Barrels to be honed. Cases to be sprayed up. Time vampire these things! Always seems to need another few bits.
Picture posted. Looks a sorry state I know, but it's being rejuvenated`!!! Hope the motor doesn't make that noise after all this.
P.S the screwdriver is my temporary earthing point. Not an optional extra!
Image before the rip down .But with noise.
Replaced full wiring loom as the old one had been 'butchered'. In one 12 inch section of loom there were 8 solder repairs on three wires. How the ******. Anyway the loom was aged and knackered. Took me a day to reconfigure all the remaining creative wiring back to stock.
Here's a question -how unhelpful is it to reproduce the wiring diagram for the bike in the Haynes, Clymer and Genuine Service book in black and white. Just makes life awkward for the sake of it. Much easier to refer to the coloured one on the owners manual Anyway everything is working well after major reconfiguration.
Been replacing seat cover this evening. Struggled with appropriate adhesive .Didn't want to use standard contact adhesive as apparently it reacts with the vinyl and returns the impact adhesive to a gooey mess in a matter of weeks due to the it having a reaction with the vinyl. Have used simple UHU. Appears to have done the job. Works great. (Maybe, time will tell) Allows you sufficient time to tweak and manipulate the edges as it steadily goes off over a shortish period (Wife recommended this as she's done similar stuff with vinyl in the past. (Yup- I can hear the brains ticking over - but it was repairing some PVC seats not her dominatrix kit!) We'll see, I'm fully expecting one day that as I accelerate away it'll slip off. Perhaps she's simply wanting rid of me.
Wheel bearings waiting to to be done. Head to be inspected. Barrels to be honed. Cases to be sprayed up. Time vampire these things! Always seems to need another few bits.
Picture posted. Looks a sorry state I know, but it's being rejuvenated`!!! Hope the motor doesn't make that noise after all this.
P.S the screwdriver is my temporary earthing point. Not an optional extra!
Image before the rip down .But with noise.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 98 guests