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z1000 starting problem
Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu
Re: z1000 starting problem
Classic bikes like these give batteries a hard time, at best the standard charging circuit is not brilliant and the old wiring and electrical items put more strain on the battery than intended. And unless you're using a top quality battery like Yuasa or Motobatt, they don't last long.
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
Re: z1000 starting problem
Thanks Nigel. I have tried a 6v Yuasa lead acid battery on one of my bikes but it did not last either but I suspect it was a fake. Maybe best to stick to Motobatt.
Re: z1000 starting problem
Ultim8pc wrote: unless you're using a top quality battery like Motobatt.
Would not call - Motobatt a top quality battery. I would nt touch one of these with a barge pole, after having them on 2 bikes. First one had a melt down. Second one would nt hold its charge.
Only use YUASA GEL batteries now.
adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Re: z1000 starting problem
Glad you got it sorted.
A little tip when buying batteries is compare the weight (if shown) this gives an indication of the amount of lead used.
Motobatt are good batteries, just be careful where you get them from. There are some old ones around selling cheap.
Yuasa are reputable and you can get Gel ones online.... In fact I am off to add them to my site now
A little tip when buying batteries is compare the weight (if shown) this gives an indication of the amount of lead used.
Motobatt are good batteries, just be careful where you get them from. There are some old ones around selling cheap.
Yuasa are reputable and you can get Gel ones online.... In fact I am off to add them to my site now
Re: z1000 starting problem
ADRIAN H wrote:Would not call - Motobatt a top quality battery. I would nt touch one of these with a barge pole, after having them on 2 bikes. First one had a melt down. Second one would nt hold its charge.
I've never had a problem with them, but understand others have.
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
Re: z1000 starting problem
I went Li-Fe (lithium-ion).
Expensive, but much lighter and much bigger CCA if you're concerned about cranking power.
Not had a problem since !
Expensive, but much lighter and much bigger CCA if you're concerned about cranking power.
Not had a problem since !
H2B GPZ900R
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- 100Club
- Posts: 303
- Joined: 3rd Aug 2013
- Location: Australia
Re: z1000 starting problem
+1 To the above somewhere.... . who stated- Buy a Quality Battery !!!!
If you buy a quality battery & keep it topped up with Distilled Water & alway EVERY month ( if your not using it ) give it a charge at no more than 10% of it's amp / hour rating . Ensure it's well rubber mounted within the bike, as vibes will destroy batteries...these will help make it last many years .The Yuasa in my Zed it now is 7 to 8 years old & it's fine . Quality battery manufacturers use NEW 'not re-cycled lead' in their batteries & thats a key point too & it one reason why there more expensive . Also in a new liquid lead acid batteries ..... stick just 1 partially heaped teaspoon of ' Epsom' Bath Salts = Manganese Sulphate in each battery cell & that will helps prevents cell / lead plate sulphating... which happens when you don't keep em charged & then they start to sulphate & that kills/ shorts battery cells (= that white powder in the acid ! )......loose one cells specific gravity = 1.26 & it's game over ! Hope this may help a few ...as it did me . Cheers.
If you buy a quality battery & keep it topped up with Distilled Water & alway EVERY month ( if your not using it ) give it a charge at no more than 10% of it's amp / hour rating . Ensure it's well rubber mounted within the bike, as vibes will destroy batteries...these will help make it last many years .The Yuasa in my Zed it now is 7 to 8 years old & it's fine . Quality battery manufacturers use NEW 'not re-cycled lead' in their batteries & thats a key point too & it one reason why there more expensive . Also in a new liquid lead acid batteries ..... stick just 1 partially heaped teaspoon of ' Epsom' Bath Salts = Manganese Sulphate in each battery cell & that will helps prevents cell / lead plate sulphating... which happens when you don't keep em charged & then they start to sulphate & that kills/ shorts battery cells (= that white powder in the acid ! )......loose one cells specific gravity = 1.26 & it's game over ! Hope this may help a few ...as it did me . Cheers.
Re: z1000 starting problem
rickm wrote:I went Li-Fe (lithium-ion).
Expensive, but much lighter and much bigger CCA if you're concerned about cranking power.
Not had a problem since !
But only if you have a high quality, modern reg/rectifier combo. (as the Li batteries do not tolerate over voltage)
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
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