Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi Z fans

Need some advice on the above. I had a rush of blood to the head and decided to change my 4 rusty cylinder head chrome nuts that are visible below the tank. i loosened each one individually and re-torqued to 42lbs Feet. Now i appear to have a slight noise , sounds like the head gasket is leaking around cylinder 1 ( far left pot if you're sitting on the bike).

Any help would be appreciated.

Bugger.
Doing what you did is a no-no. The head can distort if not torqued or loosened as per the factory manual.
The gaskets are single use.
If you're sure it's the gasket blowing then you need to take off the head off, check the head is still square/level and if it is, replace the gasket.
Hopefully, it's just the gasket. You can check your head with the edge of a steel ruler.

We all drop bollocks from time to time ,have you got a proper workshop manual if not contact 8valvemark on here
he does a nice manual usually
good luck

It might not be too late, before you take the head off try re-torqing it.

Slacken the nuts off in the reverse sequence shown then re-tighten half a turn at a time as shown until the correct torque on each nut is reached.

You have nothing to lose

As soon as you loosened the cylinder head nuts you've released the pressure, the seal will be broken/compromised, I my book you have no choice but take the head off and replace the head gaskets, you will also have to replace the barrel gasket as oil gets between crankcase and barrel were it travels up the stud and it will leak/ weep. Also 42ft/lbs where did that figure come from? Kawasaki book figure 25ft/lbs. Start at 10ft/lbs , tighten up in correct order then go to 15ft/lbs, the 20 etc etc. Buzzard@thebuzzworkz.

buzzard wrote:As soon as you loosened the cylinder head nuts you've released the pressure, the seal will be broken/compromised, I my book you have no choice but take the head off and replace the head gaskets, you will also have to replace the barrel gasket as oil gets between crankcase and barrel were it travels up the stud and it will leak/ weep. Also 42ft/lbs where did that figure come from? Kawasaki book figure 25ft/lbs. Start at 10ft/lbs , tighten up in correct order then go to 15ft/lbs, the 20 etc etc. Buzzard@thebuzzworkz.

Listen to the man that knows

42lbs is the max torque when using HD APE type studs.
For the stock studs early kwak manuals stated 25lbs but this was later revised to 29 - 31 lbs to combat oil weepage.

Thanks to all for

A. not getting lampooned by one and all for being a complete klot head

B. some spot on advice.

I have ordered a workshop manual and a top end gasket set.

Will keep this thread updated

Thanks again.

Z1100R i think from youre intro. 29 Lbs/ ft as standard but they will take more. What does the noise sound like? The exhaust gaskets leak without provocation and are simple to check. I would go there before taking drastic measures. If its an engine speed ticking noise it could be either but if no sign of leaking from the head or base gasket you may have squeaked by with a bit of luck. If worse comes to worst dont buy a pattern after market gasket set for the top end you will be dissappointed almost immediately. Same goes for Cometic one piece fibre head gaskets. The material they use now is inferior and you may be faced with the situation where you cant stop it leaking. If you choose two piece gaskets for the head and you will have to use a genuine cam tunnel 'O' ring costing £40 on its own. If there is an MLS head gasket available for the Z1100R i would strongly recommend it and you can use standard studs with standard torque without fear of leaks.You dont need a cam tunnel 'O' ring with these. Cam cover gasket if you need one; Cometic do a very good one but Kawasaki do a better one and normally re-useable if you oil one side of it. Its £40 from K but worth it. Good Cometic one for cam cover is £22. Dont use an Athena or Vesra base gasket. Again Cometic do a very good one, Kawasaki may do a better one i dont know.
Dave at Cybike may be able to help with those but if not, Nick at Suzuki Performance Spares is the, or an importer.
The 'Base' manual is the Z1000 /1100 and contains 90% of what you need but there is a supplemental manual with a Unitrak1100 on the front cover with some additional information as the Z1100R shares an engine with the ZX1100A models.
Good luck
AL

hi z fans

update on my cylinder head woes

put my brave pants on today and stripped the top end.

Exhaust cam shaft cap (left side) has sheared in 2!!!!!!!

Any advice as i understand these are machined with the head.

it is possible to get it welded but it would have to be bolted on to the head to prevent it distorting

Its possible to use a cap from another motor as long as it is done properly, someone will come along and explain how to go about it.

Left side caps control cam end float.
Has the cap sheared on the bridge joining the two halves or across the actual shell holder ?
If it is the bridge you can either have it welded or remove the bridge and use the cap in two halves.
Ideally the now seperate caps will need the other bolt holes fitting with a hollow dowel.
If it has split across the shell holder you will need to find another number 1 or 3 cap that will fit without nipping the cam once bolted down.

hi zed fans

update on my latest issues!

Managed to source an exhaust cam cap from John Browse in wrexham, top chap who was extremely knowledgeable and very helpful in sorting the problem

found some bent valves whilst checking the head out!!
why do we own these bikes!!!
picking up the cylinder head tomorrow and all being well the Z will be running early next week
update to follow.

Hi Z fans

got my cylinder head back today from john Browse of Wrexham, complete with fresh exhaust camshaft cap and a couple of new valves to boot.
new genuine stem seals, genuine head gasket and not forgetting genuine cam chain tunnel o'ring!!!!!

will be reassembling next week after i've painted the block and head

will update