Z1OwnersClub GB

What is the correct float height for the 26mm carbs used on the Z900 A4 and where is it measured to, flange face with or without the gasket fitted.

However, I am assuming the level given will be the factory setting with std float valve assy? I have aftermarket valve assy and don't know how they compare to the original ones as if they are not the same length then the height may be out? Does anybody know what the std height/length of the valve should be?

Currently I have all plugs sooty black and petrol coming out the overflow pipes, so clearly the heights are too high.

Can't do the external check as I have misplaced the tool and I need to get it sorted immediately.

Thanks

As long as the valves are doing their job it's Ok, levels should be done wet using the float level tool 3.5mm from top edge of float bowl, give or take 1mm, a rough guide is to invert the carbs and from inner edge of carb lip to bottom of float is 25-26mm, will be in the manuals either Haynes, Clymer or factory.

Thanks for the reply.

I have just measured mine and they are all about 28mm and as reported in my original post all my plugs are sooty black and I have petrol coming out the overflow pipes. Reducing the height will make this worse so something is amiss here?

As previously indicated advised, I do have aftermarket valve assys fitted so these may stand taller than the orginal ones?

Any suggestions as I don't have the manometer tools to do a wet level test.

You need to do them using the clear tube method. Its the only way to get them correct. If you take into account aftermarket or oem valves, differences in valve spring strength, differences in valve gasket thickness's, variancy in float bouancy and everything else that can influence bowl fuel height measuring upsidedown is never going to be accurate.

The clear tube method takes into account all the influencing factors and is specific to the each carb your testing.

Both cybike and zpower sell the tool, worth every penny for peace of mind.

Valves must be letting by to overflow, 28 is low, put the old valves back in and see what have in the way of float height, but as stated the correct tool is the best way to go.

Well i've found why they all started leaking via the overflow tubes.

Have had the tank off to do the shims and whilst the petrol tank pipes are only a few years old it would appear that they have hardened enough such that when pushing them onto the tap some small bits of the tubes have scraped off and were stuck in all of the valves stopping them from closing, so that at least is now sorted with some new tube.

But with regards to the float levels? I do not have the original float valves, only the ones that are fitted but they are aftermarket ones not the original Mikuni ones so not able to swap them for a check.

Plugs have been a sooty black for some time, before I did the valves and the problem caused by the bits getting stuck in the float valves, but at 28mm the levels in the bowls would seem low? I am sure I would have checked them originally using a manometer, which I have now misplaced and can't find, so it is all a bit of a loss at the moment.

I will have to see if I can get a manometer tool from somewhere.

Apart from the sooty plugs the engine dies and sputters if you try to accelerate fast or open up the throttle from a steady speed. You have to close the throttle and then open it gently and that way the engine will pick up ok.

Starts, ticks over and pulls away smoothly.

Here's a link to a club members shop, he may have some in stock.
posting.php?mode=quote&f=2&p=378149

https://www.cybike.co.uk/

kev edwards wrote:Here's a link to a club members shop, he may have some in stock.
posting.php?mode=quote&f=2&p=378149

https://www.cybike.co.uk/

Thanks

I have had 20 made

Forum members receive a price reduction on this item using code Z1OCFG10. Ends 31st October.

https://www.cybike.co.uk/Shop/Products/ ... evel-gauge