Rear Light Gremlin Z1000 A1

[Tonto]

Hi, just putting togther my project A1 and have hit an unexpected snag when re assembling the rear lights and indicators: insofar as soon as I switch my lights on the rear tail light is week/dim (brake light is strong) and blows the 10amp fuse. I thought it would be an easy fix with a short somewhere, but cant find anything logical.
I am not too hot with electrics, but had a dabble with the multimeter - assumed it was the rear harness so had the rear wiring loom apart and all is good, (fitted new heat shrink), plug connectors are good, earths to light and indicators seem good. I even fitted a spare rear light unit I had off my z900 - same result = good brak elight and blown fuse as soonas lights switched on.

Annoying thing is the lights worled befor I started recommissioning her - am I missing something obvious ? any thoughts / suggestions appreciated as Im spending a fortune on fuses

Cheers Tim

[Philippe]

Hi Tim
I think you have a short in the right hand switchblock...or in the wires coming from the switchblock to the main harness.
Bike electrics ... strange world of technology...
Good luck!
GrtZ
Philippe

[CAT3]

So, just to clarify,
The rear brake light works ok ?
When you switch the lights ON, the brake light come on bright, the tail light comes on dim & then the fuse blows ?

Is it wired up the same way as standard, nothing special fitted/connected ?

If you remove the tail light filament does the fuse still blow ?

[Tonto]

Philippe, thanks will double check that tomorrow.

CAT3 cheers - yes as you decsribed: bike is totally standard with original loom and fitings, and the brake light works as it should (so do the rear indicators / hazards fed from the same rear wiring harness), but as I turn the lights on whilst the front is spot on, the rear light is dim for a second and then "pop" - she blows the rear curcuit.

Just cant locate the short - its a bugger as I have the original paint set back from the painter and this is the last job stopping me putting it back on the bike

Cheers Tim

[CAT3]

I'd start by removing all the lighting filaments, that's tail lights, headlight, pilot light & instrument lights.
Check each filament as you take it out both visually & with a multimeter, if you have one to ensure they are OK.
Then switch the lights ON, if the fuse blows you know the fault is in the wiring somewhere.
If the fuse doesn't blow refit one filament at a time, switching the lights ON each time an additional filament is refitted. Sometimes filaments can blow & instead of breaking they short across the contacts inside the glass bulb.

[weaver]

Trace the wires from the switch to the fuse box and all the way to the rear light,it sounds like you have a short from a worn wire,or a bodged repair,has the main loom been refurbished or repaired at all?

[johny brando]

Certainly seems like light related short alright but it may originate else where . I'm certainly no electric's wiz but I normal get there in the end ...some times takes me a while ha ha. Can you tie this issue into any specific work you have done on the bike or an event ...like say a fried battery or fitting say a new rear mudguard ? try before going to deep with a multimeter first disconnecting as much as possible ( ONE THING at a time though !!! ) say the entire back light assembly first .......see if all other related items are still all OK eg Head/ light indicators , horn , every thing you realistically disconnect and check like this . I understand switch blocks are off course gunna soon impede this as it's impossible to do this at some point as there both switch blocks are linked to each other......... Have you got a mate with 900 or 1000 who might help and allow you to try his known working items = i.e. switches etc ?????? = process of elimination !
Cant really offer much else .....except pull & closely examine all electrical multi plugs connectors ...... including all those near the battery ...look for hot spots / witness marks on either side of each and every connector pin as corrosion & poor contacts in these plugs are quite common place in what are now old bikes ...also ensure you have at least 2 good CLEAN earth points.

Good luck mate. Johny. B.

[Tonto]

Thanks for the tips guys;
Really is bugging me though as loom and switches look in good order - no obvious bodges, and Ive already had the rear loom fully apart thinking I would quickly find the culprit
I will have a "proper" go at sorting the gremlin this week and let you know what the cause was.

[Tonto]

The torment continues - took onboard the tips and had a real go at sorting the "short", but alas not managed to resolve this and am getting thru 10A fuses at a hell of a rate . Not sure how something so simple and on first impressions so easy to resolve has caused such pain and stopped my reassembly - Its slowly sending me mad !

I've tried to follow the rear light circuit (and others) all the way thru the loom and checked / cleaned most connector on the bike; the loom had not been bodged too badly and appears in fairly good condition (and in keeping with the gneral condition of the rest of the bike). Some pics attached

Only thing Ive not done is fully remove the wiring running thru the bars (as its a KZ US model) - but Ive had a good look at the switches and wiring as it enters and exits the bars and all looks good,as do all connectos in the headlight.

Its not giving up without a fight - the battle continues

[z1bman]

if you disconnect the wires to the r/h switch & connect a live from the battery to the blue & white wire from the loom the rear light should come on ? also connect the live to the brown & white coming out of the loom rear light & front pilot light should come on ? if the fuse doesn't blow with it wired like this your problem is in the r/h switch you may also have a short in the clock illumination harness ?

[Rhencullen]

I presume you've changed the bulb(s) in the light Tim.........

[z1bman]

looking at the first photo where your wiring is draped over the airbox there is a black & yellow wire connected to a brown wire . black & yellow on all kawasaki's is earth. brown is a switched live so i would investigate what the brown wire is connected to & test it for power

[kev edwards]

looking at the first photo where your wiring is draped over the airbox there is a black & yellow wire connected to a brown wire . black & yellow on all kawasaki's is earth. brown is a switched live so i would investigate what the brown wire is connected to & test it for power

Just enlarged the pics they don't look connected wrong, just where they cross behind each other and have the factory soldered connections s taped up at the same locations.

[z1bman]

looking at the first photo where your wiring is draped over the airbox there is a black & yellow wire connected to a brown wire . black & yellow on all kawasaki's is earth. brown is a switched live so i would investigate what the brown wire is connected to & test it for power

Just enlarged the pics they don't look connected wrong, just where they cross behind each other and have the factory soldered connections s taped up at the same locations.

yes your rite i can see it now

[Tonto]

Thanks again chaps - will have another go on Wednesday to see if I can eliminate the RH switch and/or instrument harness - I did rebuild the instrument cluster & fitted new loom but may accidentally trapped something