Z1OwnersClub GB

Good evening ladies and gents,
below is my Z1000A2, I have had it running very briefly only to find cam chain very noisy so dropped the sum and found the dreaded front cam chain guide in the bottom, unfortunately it had a little fight on the way down so probs needs a new chain as well, I'm thinking of fitting one with a soft link for obvious reasons.
My question is, as I've not ridden the bike I do not know how the gearbox is and was wondering if there was a way of
getting a rough idea with out dismantling it, I would fit an endless cam chain then but do not relish going that deep
into it, taking the barrels off refitting will be trying enough for me.
Judging by the chain and sprockets and tyres it many have had a tough life.
Getting it into 2nd is quite hard even when spinning the rear wheel, is this usual because of the Kawasaki system
for finding neutral?? Once it's in 2nd it goes up and then back down ok if a little notchy.

Many thanks Steve

The engine will need to be split as the front guide needs to be replaced . Fit a new endless cam chain and replace all off the cam chain guides , sprockets and rubbers . Doing anything else is a waste of time . Get a Kawasaki workshop manual and read it , then do the engine .
fer

As Fer says, you may want to put a new rear tyre on whilst it's laid up as you don't know how old it is

FER wrote:The engine will need to be split as the front guide needs to be replaced . Fit a new endless cam chain and replace all off the cam chain guides , sprockets and rubbers . Doing anything else is a waste of time . Get a Kawasaki workshop manual and read it , then do the engine .
fer

Thanks Fer, I was on the understanding that removing the barrels was sufficient to replacing the front guide although I'm probably wrong, I usually am according to my wife

kev edwards wrote:As Fer says, you may want to put a new rear tyre on whilst it's laid up as you don't know how old it is

Surly until the tube starts to poking trough there's no need to replace the tyre, isn't that the ol skool tyre depth marker?

Icky wrote:

kev edwards wrote:As Fer says, you may want to put a new rear tyre on whilst it's laid up as you don't know how old it is

Surly until the tube starts to poking trough there's no need to replace the tyre, isn't that the ol skool tyre depth marker?

Absolutely! There's another 1000 miles left in that surely?

What are the plans for your bike - back to original or something Sanctuary?

Gonzo wrote:

Icky wrote:

kev edwards wrote:As Fer says, you may want to put a new rear tyre on whilst it's laid up as you don't know how old it is

Surly until the tube starts to poking trough there's no need to replace the tyre, isn't that the ol skool tyre depth marker?

Absolutely! There's another 1000 miles left in that surely?

What are the plans for your bike - back to original or something Sanctuary?

Did someone say sanctuary

Hi Gonzo,

I'm going to keep it original (apart from maybe the colour) but as a rider rather than one that's so clean that I won't
take it out, just got to decide on the colour, it was originally black being an American import but I'm not keen on
black.

Hi Icky
for replacing the front cam chain guide you don't need to split the crankcase. Removing the head and the barrels is enough.
I would suggest that you replace the camchain with an original "endless" one and therefore you have to split the crankcase and remove the pistons from the crankshaft.
As mentioned before: find yourself a workshop manual! It's all explaned in there from A to Z.
GrtZ
Philippe

Icky wrote:Hi Gonzo,

I'm going to keep it original (apart from maybe the colour) just got to decide on the colour, it was originally black being an American import but I'm not keen on
black.

Original Luminous Green, easily the best.

Philippe wrote:Hi Icky
for replacing the front cam chain guide you don't need to split the crankcase. Removing the head and the barrels is enough.
I would suggest that you replace the camchain with an original "endless" one and therefore you have to split the crankcase and remove the pistons from the crankshaft.
As mentioned before: find yourself a workshop manual! It's all explaned in there from A to Z.
GrtZ
Philippe

+1

Garry.L wrote:

Icky wrote:Hi Gonzo,

I'm going to keep it original (apart from maybe the colour) just got to decide on the colour, it was originally black being an American import but I'm not keen on
black.

Original Luminous Green, easily the best.

s-l1600 (1).jpg

That colour does look fantstic! and thanks Philippe for the encouragement.
Cheers Steve

Garry.L wrote:

Icky wrote:Hi Gonzo,

I'm going to keep it original (apart from maybe the colour) just got to decide on the colour, it was originally black being an American import but I'm not keen on
black.

Original Luminous Green, easily the best.

s-l1600 (1).jpg

Mmmmm that OEM Green is nice ........but they did a really nice burnt Orange too . Colours like Music & food - all just personal taste aye !