Z1OwnersClub GB

Good afternoon guys,
I went out late summer for a blast and the bike went on two cylinders after a short while, limped home, checked spark and only spark on 1-2, new dyna coils ordered.
Fitted them and although started up on 4 went to 2, so I ordered the other half of the dyna kit.
Just got around to fitting it to find that the problem was probably all along the ignition switch which has fallen apart !.
Z power cannot supply one so I’ve bought a new one off of eBay !
Although this says it is for LTD and CSR with ignition on there no oil light, neutral light and rev counter doesn’t work, but headlight works and it runs well, turn key to park light and steering lock and the oil light, neutral light, Indicators headlight work but no starter.
New ignition switch wire colours are different to the original.

Seems to me the new switch wiring is wrong can anyone help

is it a uk bike ? how many wires are attached to each of the switches & what are the colours

It’s an American import the original switch plug has 6 wires plus an extra bullet, new one is the same but different colours, will get a picture of original tomorrow.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2409819639
This is the one I’ve just bought.

Original part number is 27005 5019

the wiring colours on the switch in your link is for a gpz1100 a1 + totaly different wiring configuration to the z1000ltd

Another wonderful ebay buy then !.

Can they be changed around to the right way ? .

yes but you need to know the wire switching combinations which is shown in the genuine workshop manuals

farmer, if you need any further help with the wiring etc please give me a shout, I've got the factory manual for the 1981 k1 ltd(a spare too) i also know a guy who broke one up late last year n might possibly still have the original ignition switch for it..m

Grahame's bike is a US import version not the general export version for Europe etc. and it looks like the internal 'hard wiring' (contacts) inside the old original switch favour a three way connection when Park is selected so an external re-wire may or may not be effective. The Euro and general export switch has different internals contacts. So even a Euro type would not immediately solve this particular issue. I cant fathom it out from looking at the wiring diagram. It is also not the correct type of switch to fit in the top yolk where the correct type would be round and this one square but that problem may be not so much of an issue. Needs a wiring specialist really.

AL

Thanks for the offer Mark on the manual but I have one.
could you ask your friend about the ignition switch please.
I managed to pick up my clymer manual today, not had anytime much due to a bereavement in the family.
Looking at the wiring diagrams, the KZ/Z1000J1/2 Z/KZ1000K1/2 KZ//Z1100 A1/2 Wether European or American have all the same wire colours and positions coming out the switch.
So I’m thinking same switch !?.
Wires aren’t my best subject !.

what colours are the wires on your original switch ?

what i would do is remove the wires from the new switch block conector & re conect them in the same order as the original switch. the two most important wires are the white wire which is permananly live & the brown wire which is a switched live & so is the red.leave the other wires disconected & turn on the ignition & see what works

Thanks, I’ll have a go.