Z1OwnersClub GB

Dear Forum
I'm doing a z1000a1 top end gasket replacement.

What is the advice on replacing camchain or not. And if so using linked chain - and what brand?

I know in some cases you can measure the chain to check stretch. Not sure if that's the case with Z's.
(One thing I do know is I won't be splitting the crankcases.)

Many thanks in advance.
David

My thou had a stretched chain when I got it, i changed it using the soft link and peened it old school style same with my xs 650. Just get a good quality chain and link and do not beat the hell out of it, only takes a couple of light taps, good old dad taught me, ex army mechanic.

[quote="kev edwards"]My thou had a stretched chain when I got it, i changed it using the soft link and peened it old school style same with my xs 650. Just get a good quality chain and link and do not beat the hell out of it, ionly takes a couple of light taps, good old dad taught me, ex army mechanic.[/quote]

Hi Kev
Thanks for the advice.
Will have a look and see what the quality chain is DID I suppose.
Did the same with an old 500/4 using a lump hammer behind the chain.
David

Cam chain - should be replaced with an endless chain. It is not advisable to use one with a link.

However it can be done if you're extremely careful.

I did a soft link replacement on my 550 about 4 years ago, been okay, no trouble, get a new cam chain and link from Phil at z power.

1. Chains don't stretch the rollers wear
2. Splitting the crankcases isn't that difficult on a Z engine
3. If you do decide to split the cases, it's much easier with two people
4. The crank is bloody heavy

Julian_Boolean wrote:1. Chains don't stretch the rollers wear
2. Splitting the crankcases isn't that difficult on a Z engine
3. If you do decide to split the cases, it's much easier with two people
4. The crank is bloody heavy

I changed the cam chain on my z1000a1 with 32000 miles, compared to the new chain, and it had stretched.

Chains do stretch, thats why there's a figure (service limit) to compare new vs old, but tbh, the rollers also get shagged

Thanks for your comments.

The top guide roller (Between the camshafts) seemed ok, but when I took it apart the black plastic / rubber just fell to bits.
the other rollers seems better.
Chain is linkless. Could be original I suppose. There seems little wear inside the engine.
Whereas the exterior of the bike / engine looks like its been around the world a few times.

Pigford wrote:Chains do stretch, thats why there's a figure (service limit) to compare new vs old, but tbh, the rollers also get shagged

So you're saying the plates get longer with use, anything else is wear on the moving parts, which makes the chain have a longer measured length.

BTW my Unitrak camchain was about 10mm longer than the new Kawasaki one I replaced it with.
Also worth knowing that when I replaced mine the genuine Kawasaki cam chain was half the price of a DID one

Talking of which, can one still get a decent gpz1100 hyvo type camchain with a soft link anywhere?

Splitting the cases just to change a chain that I'm only thinking about doing because I happen to have the head off just isn't happening.

As far as soft links go, an endless chain is better, but I've never had any issues with soft links, just don't drop the bits down into the bottom end or you'll end up cussing.

I fitted one into a 550 uni engine years ago when I was even more of a fat handed tw@t than I am now, then did many thousands of miles on it as a courier without any problems at all. It got fair revved too... I think the needle hits the stop at about 12000 rpm on those tachos.


Olly

Julian_Boolean wrote:

Pigford wrote:Chains do stretch, thats why there's a figure (service limit) to compare new vs old, but tbh, the rollers also get shagged

So you're saying the plates get longer with use, anything else is wear on the moving parts, which makes the chain have a longer measured length.

BTW my Unitrak camchain was about 10mm longer than the new Kawasaki one I replaced it with.
Also worth knowing that when I replaced mine the genuine Kawasaki cam chain was half the price of a DID one

Hmmmm, good point.

Yes the plates can and will stretch (probably imperceptibly), but I suppose the wear withing the rollers may have the greater effect?
I did do "Mechanical & Production Engineering - HND" many years ago and don't have the required brain power to solve this particular quandary nowadays

Anyhow, fact is they do stretch for whatever reason. Always made me worry about the crank sprocket which will wear and it's always good/proper practice to change all sprockets when using a new chain (not necessarily Hy-Vo)?

The cam chain wear limit is to measure the stretch in the chain only (and they do stretch), you can't really do this with the chain in situ as it is around the crank sprocket unless you have a spare crank somewhere that you can put a new chain around to compare, I used a soft link chain on my old 900 years ago without any problems and that got hammered, always safer to change the chain and running gear albeit it's quite expensive the original rollers with the rubber inserts are shite unless quite new as the rubber turns to Bakelite over time and then they are are ticking bomb! my opinion is it's always better to use Liska as stronger and the noise difference is negligible.
Just my opinion!