Z1OwnersClub GB

I'm getting a bit confused over torque settings between the US Kawasaki service manual and Clymer as they appear to slip between inch-lbs and foot-lbs without warning! I work in Ft-Lbs so would like reassurance of the torque values for:
Spark Plugs
Camshaft cap bolts
Camshaft chain tensioner bolt
Cylinder head nuts
Cylinder head bolts
Cylinder head cover bolts

Many thanks

1 ft-lb is 12 inch-lb ie just divide by 12 to get correct setting

Be very careful with the cam caps and cam cover bolts. 40 odd years of heat cycles and steel bolts into ally threads makes for very easy stripping of the threads. I ignore the torque settings for those and just go with the mark one human hand feel and short spanner torque so as to not stripe the threads.

Spark Plugs . - finger tighten the spark plug, then 1/2 to 2/3 turn with socket.
Camshaft cap bolts - 8 ft/lbs ( I just nip them up by hand)
Camshaft chain tensioner bolt - Which bolt ? . if it's the side facing 10mm for locking the plunger then as the cam cap bolts.
Cylinder head nuts _ stock studs 29 ft/lbs. ( Not 25ft/lbs as stated in early manuals)
Cylinder head bolts near the outer plugs. - 8 to 10 ft/lbs ( again I just nip them up by hand)
Cylinder head cover bolts - 8 ft/lbs but same as cam caps and head bolts

zed1015 wrote:Spark Plugs . - finger tighten the spark plug, then 1/2 to 2/3 turn with socket.

Hey Rob, is that with new plugs only, before the washer has been compressed?

I tend to do hand tight & then 1/4 - 1/2 turn max as scared of stripping the thread. It always seems the #4 plug is most commonly removed for checking things!

Guessing from your forum name you also own one of them there Yankee tractor things !!
I'm sure you must be used to tightening nuts & bolts up, tight, with Loctite, spring washers & wire-locked !!
However, with these marvels of the Japanese, even though they be old, they do not shake themselves to death so you should always assume the quoted torque figures are in.Lbs. until you have read the manual a second time to confirm whether it should be in.Lbs. or ft.Lbs. !! He,He

Pigford wrote:

zed1015 wrote:Spark Plugs . - finger tighten the spark plug, then 1/2 to 2/3 turn with socket.

Hey Rob, is that with new plugs only, before the washer has been compressed?

I tend to do hand tight & then 1/4 - 1/2 turn max as scared of stripping the thread. It always seems the #4 plug is most commonly removed for checking things!

I always do new plugs finger tight plus 1/2 turn & once used finger tight plus 1/4 maximum.

Yes, 1340 FXD is because I also own a Harley - now 20 years old and having done over 100,000 miles touring Europe and while it vibrates, very little has actually fallen off along the way! My Kawasaki bikes are 1974 H2B, 1978 KZ1000 A2 and recently sold a ZX-7R P7.

It is the official manual which got me going - it lists torque settings under a heading of ft-lbs and then randomly throws in settings giving in-lbs. Yes I know how to convert one to the other but the problem is identifying which is what.

1340fxd wrote:
It is the official manual which got me going - it lists torque settings under a heading of ft-lbs and then randomly throws in settings giving in-lbs. Yes I know how to convert one to the other but the problem is identifying which is what.

Also beware the manuals mainly have a wrong figure for cam cap bolts... methods/ figures mentioned above are safer.

Pigford wrote:

zed1015 wrote:Spark Plugs . - finger tighten the spark plug, then 1/2 to 2/3 turn with socket.

Hey Rob, is that with new plugs only, before the washer has been compressed?

I tend to do hand tight & then 1/4 - 1/2 turn max as scared of stripping the thread. It always seems the #4 plug is most commonly removed for checking things!

Yes! with new plugs.
If used then I just nip them up same as you 1/4 - 1/2 turn.