Z1000 A1 - Metallic paint or regular?

[David32knyte]

Dear All
Quick question.

Z1000 A1 Blue standard colour. Was it metallic or not?
Keep seeing photos of what appear original paint in both metallic and regular finishes.

ALSO has anyone got any tips for the gold pinstripes?
I bought a set of ebay, vinyl laser cut material type.
So any tips on how to apply would be welcome.
Presume will give it a few coats of clear lacquer over the top to finish.

Many thanks

David

[warren3200gt]

I think it is a 3 colour process the same as 650 candy emerald green.
Fist coats are silver, second are green (for a 650), third are clear laquer.
No paint codes existed from KHI so the exact paint mix is a best guess. They even varied in shade from the factory.

[David32knyte]

I think it is a 3 colour process the same as 650 candy emerald green.
Fist coats are silver, second are green (for a 650), third are clear laquer.
No paint codes existed from KHI so the exact paint mix is a best guess. They even varied in shade from the factory.

Hi thanks for your reply.

OK. I know that the blue 76/77 A1s do seem to end up all sorts of colours, from a straight dark blue to a petrol type colour.

I'm trying for the petrol / aqua end of things

So the colour is in the 2nd tint coat, you re saying?

Thanks
David

[David32knyte]

Actually found this in another post that is in line with your suggestion.


The A1 colours are a thorny old issue. I went to see one the other week that had the original paint and stripes and it was midway between green and blue. I gather the colour was achieved by spraying a 'candy' tinted lacquer over a silver base coat - hence the huge variation - so there really isn't one 'definitive' colour. i have a theory that they achieved the colour by spraying both blue and green candies?
Anyhow, here's a pic of the A1 KZ I own in the States - original paint and VERY green - though you can see the blueish hue on the ducktail - if you squint! Ignore the brown patches - that's the colour it fades to after prolonged sun exposure! Kwacker paint is wierd.
Hope that's confused things for you...
[img]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s78/kwackerkz/Maine%20KZ1000/KZ1000-WebbLake1-Aug06.jpg[/img][/quote]

[warren3200gt]

David, my A1 is original paint. But post a pic is a bit useless as everyone has their screens set differently so it looks different to every veiwer.
Heres 2 pics of mine. Looks very different in different light.

[David32knyte]

Appears that the silver is Lecher 61 098 pers magnum silver

BUT can't find a ref for the blue/ greeny blue tint coat colour - If anyone out there knows that one?

[David32knyte]

David, my A1 is original paint. But post a pic is a bit useless as everyone has their screens set differently so it looks different to every veiwer.
Heres 2 pics of mine. Looks very different in different light.
s-l1600 (2).jpg
IMG_20190905_211824.jpg

Hi there
Wow! that is just the perfect shade IMO. That's how I would like to do mine.
What a beauty.
It is remarkable the variation in colour hue between A1s made in the same year.
But that's one.
David

[warren3200gt]

My local paint wholesaler supplies rs paints. When I painted my green 650 I went there for the paint and the silver they said was "coarse magnum silver."
Rs paints supply water based paints but it is horrible to use in a spray gun. I asked my guys for solvent based and they mixed some up for me. As long as its for a classic bike/car its lawful to buy solvent based if not then they wont sell you anything but water based. Bloody h&s sticking their nose in again.

[warren3200gt]

It is remarkable the variation in colour hue between A1s made in the same year.
David

I think they were hand spray painted back then. The candy coat looks very different if one or two coats, thicker or thinner coats, etc. I would think there was also more than one guy doing the painting as well which kinda explains why they were so different for the "same" colour.

[Garry.L]

Kawasaki used Candy not Metallic paints...…

http://www.kawatriple.com/paint.html (scroll down)

http://www.kawatriple.com/PaintProcess.htm

[David32knyte]

My local paint wholesaler supplies rs paints. When I painted my green 650 I went there for the paint and the silver they said was "coarse magnum silver."
Rs paints supply water based paints but it is horrible to use in a spray gun. I asked my guys for solvent based and they mixed some up for me. As long as its for a classic bike/car its lawful to buy solvent based if not then they wont sell you anything but water based. Bloody h&s sticking their nose in again.

Good tip. I'll remember that one.

[David32knyte]

It is remarkable the variation in colour hue between A1s made in the same year.
David

I think they were hand spray painted back then. The candy coat looks very different if one or two coats, thicker or thinner coats, etc. I would think there was also more than one guy doing the painting as well which kinda explains why they were so different for the "same" colour.

Yes that sounds right. Which actually adds to the appeal IMO.
Also means we can have some leeway colour wise

[David32knyte]

Kawasaki used Candy not Metallic paints...…

http://www.kawatriple.com/paint.html (scroll down)

http://www.kawatriple.com/PaintProcess.htm

Great resource, thanks for posting.
Very useful.

[damien.wrl]

Just had mine repainted, so many different versions of diamond sky blue out there, really happy with mine, I did find the paint codes for original finish but I ended up having made up with a matched colour and a blue fleck lacquer ..
Pic of my finish which can randomly look blue green and black plus the paint codes chart

[Philippe]

Hi David
as stated before the "Diamond Blue" paint of the Z1000A1 has many shades ranging from dark blue to dark green. It changes depending on the amount of sunlight.
Applying the decals is a bit tricky...
I've done that a few times so I have a bit of experience but it's always waiting how it will turn out in the end.
Cut out the decals as close to the edge as possible.
Put them on the body part to see if they fit.
Use special tape for body work paint, it's available in carpaint shops.
Put a bit of the tape on the body work to act as a guide line in orde to make sure the decals are at the correct place.
Make sure the paint has cured for about a week, the vapours must be gone!
Mix water with a drop of dishwashing soap, not too much! The drop of soap will make the water "thinner".
Put the mixture in a spray bottle so you can apply a "mist" of little waterdrops on the bodywork.
Remove the backing paper from one of the decals and put the decal into place. The mist of waterdrops will allow you to slide the decal in the correct place.
Press the decal to the body work and start peeling off the protective film. Hold the decal firmly on one side and slowly take off the protective film. Mind that yhe decal will stretch a bit when peeling off the protective film so don't hurry, do it slowly.
Work your way up from one end of the decal to the other end. While doing that use a cloth to push on the decal so you can remove excessive water and make sure the decal keeps sticking onto the body work.
When the protective film is removed check out if the decals lines are correct and not "waving".Correct the decal if needed. The waterdrops between the decal and the body work allows you to make slight corrections.
Use a car filler rubber to remove the water from under the decal by pushing it towards the side of the decal and dip it up with a cloth.
Wait a week to apply a clearcoat over the decals. The water must be able to evaporate completely before you apply a clear coat.
If not there will appear bubbles under the decal!
It takes some practice to do the decalwork so don't be disappointed if it doesn't work out perfect from the first time!
Good luck with it!
GrtZ
Philippe