Z1OwnersClub GB

I was asked to finish off an A4 for an old pal He had rebuilt the motor with standard nos pistons
It came to Me around 90% complete
Wiring needed sorting but the loom was good so pretty much plug and play carbs needed sorting which I did
Finally started it today it started really easily but oil light would not go out
The oil level in the inspection window did not disappear with the engine running which it should
I opened the rocker cover there is oil there but not in the quantity I would expect to see
My suspicion is it a faulty oil pump
The engine did run smoothly with nothing getting too hot quickly which is why I suspect the pump
Any thoughts on this

i would say its the small tapered o ring missing from the crank case halves?

Thanks for the reply
I am not sure which O ring that is
I did not build the engine thankfully
It has an oil leak from the sump which I am about to investigate
I will also remove the pump to see if anything is amiss

The one in the centre of the engine...

Chris unfortunately or fortunately I did not build this engine
I received the bike as a near complete build but startup has shown these faults

z1bman wrote:i would say its the small tapered o ring missing from the crank case halves?

i'd agree. easy for someone to miss.

Paul,
Easiest check first, has the large internal O ring in the sump plate been fitted as this will cause the oil light to stay on. I've been there!!
Regards
Steve

I had similar on my z1000 when I first tried it. I span it over on the starter to check for oil flow to the head before I fired it up and didn't get any.

I pulled one of the oilway blanking plugs off of the end of the oilway that runs across the top of the top case and it was dry.

Pulled the oil pressure switch out and span it over, dry initially then lots of oil flow all over my nice clean motor, then put it all together and span it over - good oil supply. Been fine ever since.

There must have a problem with an air lock. There was a Kawasaki service bulletin that I've seen about it and I think a bleed hole got added to the pressure switch to stop this happening. Mine has a bleed hole in the switch but still did it, though on the starter, not while actually running.

Maybe worth following the same process that I did?

Olly