Fork damper removal problems

[Gavin]

Hi everyone
I am trying to split my MK2 forks (tubes need a rechrome), I have split many z forks over the years and have never had an issue until now, I have the holder required (usually use 15mm plumbing pipe) to grip while removing the bottom bolt, however this wouldn’t work so looking down the tube the damper doesn’t have a square for it to locate it looks like it is just round,
Has anyone come across this before and how did you stop the damper from spinning
TIA
Gavin

[Julian_Boolean]

Broom handle sharpened to a taper and really force the damper rod onto it.

[MikeP]

I've tried numerous methods which initially worked (impact wrench on allen key, tubes and bars of metal with formed ends) and finally a set of forks on the ELR wouldn't budge. I gave in and bought the pukka tools via Wemoto (takes a couple of weeks to order in). Used them numerous times now:

ForkTool.JPG (59.76 KiB) Viewed 6860 times

Part numbers: 57001-183 and 57001-1011
Probably could make a similar tool out of square bar, but you'll need to harden the square end so it bites the damper tube.

[Gavin]

Mike thanks for the reply, I have one of those but there is nothing for it to hold onto, I have been told by an ex Kawasaki mechanic, that Kawasaki did on occasion use the type without the square hole, but very rarely,

[KeithZ1R]

I have the round hole versions in one of mine I used this setup which is just a tapered round puch jammed into a peice of pipe ....it worked along side a rattle gun on the cap head

[Gavin]

Cheers Keith, I will hunt around the garage for one and give it a try

[Mr Bump]

You could try loosely reassemble the fork by fitting the fork and cap so that the spring is preloaded. The spring preload should hopefully hold the damper rod still enough for you to get the bolt turning using a rattle gun.

I use an 18v 1/4" chuck jobbie with the spring refitted if necessary and it has worked every time so far.

Olly

[Gavin]

Cheers Ollie, the more ideas the better

[scott]

A fire poker does the same job, ive used them before!!!

[moizeau]

I've got the 3/8 tapered square tool, my ST forks wouldn't have any of it until I turned the forks the 'wrong way round'. In other words, put the allen key on the floor with my hoof on it and turned the special tool while pressing down. It's the only way I could get enough 'bite' between the fork and tool.

[thebuelligan]

I have a piece of key steel roughly tapered in the end of some steel tube
I find that inserting into the damper, standing the fork so the tapered tool is on the floor and then give bottom allen bolt a good whacking with the impact driver seems to work.

[Gavin]

Afternoon, well after trying all of the suggestions, the bolt and damper spin, so got the bolt to move slightly, however the bolt is now stuck solid and no matter what I try I cannot get enough grip on to the damper to stop it turning to get the bolt out, this is both fork legs.
Although I don’t like the brutal approach to get things apart it looks like I am going to have to drill the bolt to get its head off and once apart go on from there.

[deka]

are you sure its not the oval one as fitted to the later z900a i have a socket for one of those its a suzuki part that i bought from canada, it arrived just after i had removed them after
re-purposing a socket to the right shape

[Gavin]

Deka, thanks for the reply, I ended up giving them to a mate of mine who used to be a Kawasaki mechanic, now sorted and pick them up Monday then off to get rechromed.

[Tonto]

Gav, hi
I need a set doing, who are you using for the hard re-chrome (HCP Mansfield or Philpotts) - what turn around time are they offering you ?
Cheers Tim