Page 1 of 1
Hand tapping lubricant
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 1:47 pm
Author: steve452
Further to my rotor bolt problem outlined in another thread, does anyone have a recommendation for a good lubricant for hand tapping an M8 x 1.25 thread in the rotor end of a Z1-B crank? It would seem that Jokisch paste and Castrol Moly-D fluid are practically unobtainable in the UK.
Re: Hand tapping lubricant
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 2:28 pm
Author: warren3200gt
Re: Hand tapping lubricant
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 2:46 pm
Author: zed1015
Any light oil will do as a lubricant for cleaning out the threads.
As mentioned on the other thread a HSS tap will be more than enough to clear any old thread lock and even true the threads up..
I've done it countless times on these with no problem.
Re: Hand tapping lubricant
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 3:30 pm
Author: steve452
Cheers guys. Have ordered some Molyslip from Zoro. Have also earlier ordered some TC taps. Appreciate what you say Zed1015, but after nearly getting a HSS tap jammed in the crank I think I'll go for the harder option. I really don't want to have to go down the route of deinstalling the crank to get it machine tapped.
Re: Hand tapping lubricant
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 5:02 pm
Author: Al
Apparently acetone can be used to soften some loctite varieties. Needless to say; its a bit flammable
and one if not more of those volatile organics produces phosgene gas when heated
AL
Re: Hand tapping lubricant
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 1:24 pm
Author: steve452
Thanks for the warning Al, but I'll just be using heat from a Dremel torch to soften (hopefully) the crud then a drop of Molyslip and a TC tap. If that doesn't work then the crank will have to come out for machine tapping.
Re: Hand tapping lubricant
Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 7:12 pm
Author: needaz1100r
steve452 wrote:Cheers guys. Have ordered some Molyslip from Zoro. Have also earlier ordered some TC taps. Appreciate what you say Zed1015, but after nearly getting a HSS tap jammed in the crank I think I'll go for the harder option. I really don't want to have to go down the route of deinstalling the crank to get it machine tapped.
Be careful with Tungsten Carbide taps, they are hard, so they can cut hardened steels, BUT they are more brittle, so, especially using them by hand, they are easier to break and then......they are very hard to drill out, even for the engineering shop you have to take it to.
Good quality HSS is perfectly adequate for anything you will ordinarily come across on a motorbike.