Z1OwnersClub GB

Is it just me or should the holes on the link plate be a fraction smaller than the pins on the link? The ones on mine are about 0.05mm smaller than the pin diameter which means I can't push the plate on and get the rivet tool in position. Is this normal or have I got an out of spec link?

I did of course me should the holes be a fraction larger. Doh

Tighter than a tight thing is correct. Use the rivet tool to force the plate on first then change to the rivet tool to peen the rivets over. You dont want the joint to rely on the peened rivets solely.
Having said that I've never had an issue with clip links.

Many thanks for your reply Warren. Surely if it's worse than an interference fit then the link is not going to roll around the pins or am I missing something? My problem is not that I don't understand what you've said (I've seen a few YT vids on the process) but that I can't line up the plate onto the pins in the first place as the plate keeps sliding sideways. Would it cause an issue if I ground a very slight chamfer on to the inner side of the plate to provide a "lead in" for the pins, or would that weaken the plate too much?

Its the inner link that rotates on the pin. The outer plates dont move on the pin. Think of it as a hinge.
Does your tool have a inner and outer plate with two holes in it? The one on the wheel side fits over the back heads of the two pins. The one on the outside hols the link plate in place and the two holes allow the pins heads to fit through them allowing you to brute force push the plate onto the two pins. Then change the outside tool plate to the peening tool and squish the pin ends. Dont do them so tight that the peened end splits.

It's an Oxford OX777 and has grooved plates which fit over the link plate. The problem I have is trying to line up the outer plate so that the holes lie exactly over the pin ends without it sliding out of position. As the holes are slightly smaller than the pins getting them to sit exactly right is a pain.

Dont know the tool your using. If it were me I would try to just get the outer plate to jam in position using plumbers grips, mole grips or some tool were the jaws remain paralel to each otherl. Once its positioned then use the rivet tool to compress the link together.

They can be a pain to do occasionally, but I have always removed the peened links and replaced with the spring type, never had any problems.

Warren...great tip re the mole grips! After 3 or 4 goes I managed to lock the plate and then using the rivet tool eventually got to this state (pic). Almost broke my wrists doing it and had to use a 1/2" socket and socket extension bar to apply enough pressure. I really am getting too old for this sort of muscular effort

Just out of interest this is the Oxford OX777 chain tool I'm using.

Well! My first attempt at flaring the ends. The pin heads are actually greater diameter than they started but I think they've been made from some exotic alien alloy because this is the best I could do, practically standing on the socket bar and almost breaking my wrist ligaments to get to this stage. The peening ball in the tool is not deformed so I guess the ends are about as flared as they're going to be. I'll soon find out when the chain is under load.

Yeah, they dont look flared enough to me. Looking at your picture it appears you only have one size of flaring tool. The one I have has 3. I start with the smallest and get progresively larger until the desired flare is achieved.

If you feel confident enough with a hammer, hold a lump hammer against the inside of the chain to act as an anvil then peen the rivet over by whacking it with the ball end of an engineers hammer.

It's how I used to do it when I was a poor little scrote with no more tools than an angle grinder, a pair of mole grips and some hammers.

Olly