Z1A carb vent & fuel pipes

[MrDavo]

Can anyone tell me what ID and length pipes I need for my Z1A?

I need to make up the overflow and vent pipes for all four carbs, as well as the fuel lines from the tap, which I assume are a larger internal diameter.

Once I have the lengths and ID I'll probably try and buy a job lot, black nitrile tubing I assume.

[warren3200gt]

Buy it by multiples of metres here. Much, much cheaper than mc parts suppliers.

https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.u ... r-90-c.asp

[z2.john]

[steve452]

I also bought mine from AFS for the overflows. I got the fuel lines themselves from Z-Power. The overflows were cheap as chips (though not as tasty), arrived very quickly and were perfect for my Z1-B carbs. I ordered 5m of the NT-003.5 (3mm ID).

I just guessed roughly the lengths for the overflows, added a bit and test installed the carbs. Ran the pipes through the rubber stay (my original!) and then cut them so all finished at the same point behind the engine.

Easy peasy.

[MrDavo]

Thanks very much for the information, I’ve ordered the overflow pipe tubing from AFS.

Using the information from John (what book is that?) it seems AFS doesn’t do quite the right size for the fuel and breather pipes, so I might also use the Z Power option. Making pipes fit that don’t quite isn’t an option for fuel lines. Where do the breather pipes go to?

[z2.john]

(what book is that?)

Book is from Z-power but if your not into the anal side of things, don't bother
https://www.z-power.co.uk/z1-parts-book-by-john-brooks

[steve452]

Forget John's comment about being anal. He's being very modest. In my opinion this book is essential for anyone re-building or considering buying any flavour of Z1. Apart from covering just about every question regarding what was and what was not fitted to the bikes as they came out of the factory it is the undisputed authority of his text that sold it for me. He obviously spent a hell of a lot of time researching the data that went into the book unlike a lot of the so called "experts" hanging around the interweb. It was a huge help in re-building my '75 Z1-B from scratch and I doubt the task would have been as easy if I'd not have had it to hand.

Buy a copy and you won't be sorry. Z-Power are still showing it as in stock (or rather they're not showing it as out of stock )

[ADRIAN H]

(what book is that?)

Book is from Z-power but if your not into the anal side of things, don't bother
https://www.z-power.co.uk/z1-parts-book-by-john-brooks

It is a very good book, extremely useful. Credit to you.

[MrDavo]

Book ordered, thanks.

[Ultim8pc]

https://www.z-power.co.uk/z1-parts-book-by-john-brooks

If you're restoring a Z1 this is the 'go to' book to identify you have the correct parts.

[MrDavo]

John's book came yesterday, last night I gave it a good peruse, while watching Henry Cole moan about the fact that it rains so much in Ireland. Of course it does, Henry, why do you think its so bloody green?

John's book is invaluable if you need to get it right, it also can weigh you down with worry about what is not right, with everything it's up to you what matters.

For example the horn I have fitted, although the right make has screws not rivets. Let's see who notices. Date coding is a nightmare if you want everything bang on, and lets not even check if my data stickers have the right font (ie 'Helmet' is NOT the same font as 'Hook').... I get John's comments about the anal aspect (probably a porn film title, let's see who Google leads here!) but it's such a resource to have the ability to check if a part is right, however if I had my time over I should have bought this first.

One thing that is immediately obvious and I will change are the front and rear reflectors (for the US model) - mine all have a chrome edge, which looking better than black it makes them obviously fake from the first glance - I am ordering the real things from Z Power. Although rivet counters will hopefully not be taking off my switches and brake plate etc to see if the right date code is there, the blingy reflectors will make it just too easy for them. My front indicators are genuine Stanley, my rears are no name pattern, so I'll order the right lenses.

On the fuel pipe front, I now know how long to cut my pipes, and I've learned that the top breather pipes go through the hole in the frame gusset at the rear of the fuel tank.

[steve452]

IMHO the important thing is not that these bikes are as they left the factory but that they are restored to running order and then used for how they were intended, on the road and track. Considering the mods and after-market kits that were produced for these bikes at the time it's a wonder any of them were "as factory" after a few years from new. If the rivet counters point out the "errors" on your bike just ask them how many miles they've done on theirs lately.

If you're interested in accurate repros of the decals turn to page 21 of John's book where he gives details of John Clifton's decals which are brilliant reproductions. My set cost the equivalent of about £35 inclusive of postage last year. They normally take 1 to 3 weeks to arrive (he's in Australia) but hit one of the lockdowns and the height of the pandemic so took about twice that. His contact details are in the book. I've attached a pic of them on the rear mudguard and ducktail.

I've also attached pics of the decals as they came from the factory (my original Z1-B ducktail).