Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi folks,
I can't seem to get this straight in my head so if I post some photos (we love photos) can someone rattle my brain please?
Okies...it is a z1b lump....looks to have had cam damage at some point.
It runs, but not great.
I've rotated timing mark to tdc on 1 and 4.
Inlet cam timing marks are not Level with head.
Exhaust markings....well who the heck knows?

Am I trying to set these up correctly or am I missing summat? apart from a few brain cells!

Any help or piss takes great fully received.
Pete

toot toot, flat oot....

Isnt the cam timing marks on those on the center line of the apex sprocket bolt ?
Looks ok if thats the case.

Been trying to follow the Clymer book but it's got me going round in circles......but thanks for that
Pete

Step back and take a pic showing how the cam lobes are lying against the head surface please

Will do that tomorrow Chris thanks.
Pete

Hi Pete

have a look at how the camshaft ends are situated in my topic "Z1000A1 restoration" in "Projects" . There are pictures of how the camshafts should be at TDP of cylinders 1 and 4. Pay attention to the position of the cam lobes of the fourth cylinder.
Start by looking at the position of the exhaust camshaft. There's an arrow on the sprocket. That arrow must be aligned with the upper part of the cylinder head. When counting the 28 pins of the camchain, start with the pin right ABOVE that mark.
The 28th pin of the camchain must be on top of the "28" mark on the sprocket of the inlet camshaft.
If you do this correctly the two camshafts must be in the correct position.
Good luck
GrtZ
Philippe

Extracts from Kawaskai Z1 Service manual, easier to follow than Clymer manual.

Picture of the Outlet cam fitted - Arrow on Cam sprocket Horizontal - in line with top of Cylinder head.

Note notch mark at the ends of cam is horizontal and facing forwards.

TEXT edited, had a senior moment. dooh.

Looks like exhaust not inlet Adrian.

ADRIAN H wrote:Picture of the Inlet cam fitted - Arrow on Cam sprocket Horizontal - in line with top of Cylinder head.

Note notch mark at the ends of cam is horizontal and facing forwards.

Thanks for all the info guys, I will digest it all.....this Owners Club is far better than any manual!!
I've taken a photo of the cam position on no.4...no1 is obviously the opposite way round.
It seems to be set correctly, I just wanted to make sure it was right as the bike has an unknown history......considering some of the bodges on it!!


Pete

warren3200gt wrote:Looks like exhaust not inlet Adrian.

ADRIAN H wrote:Picture of the Inlet cam fitted - Arrow on Cam sprocket Horizontal - in line with top of Cylinder head.

Note notch mark at the ends of cam is horizontal and facing forwards.

Should read Oulet / Exhaust - Having a dyslexic moment. Thanks.

I seem to remember if you align the crankshaft correctly to the "T" mark for cylinders 1 & 4 you then position the exhaust camshaft according to the manual, (you should also place the inlet camshaft in position to support the camchain - this also stops any slack causing the cam chain to slip on the crankshaft & cause the cam timing to be out).
When you position the exhaust camshaft into place you need to remember that when you fit the two camshaft caps to that camshaft & tighten them down, the exhaust camshaft may well tend to rotate slightly as you tighten the caps down as one or two of the lobes push against the valve buckets. This causes the valve timing to be incorrect so what you need to do is, initially, turn it slightly pointing down to account for this.

When the exhaust camshaft is correctly positioned & tightened in place it will be aligned exactly as the manual shows.
If it is not DO NOT rotate the crankshaft, remove the two caps again & re-position the exhaust cam until you achieve correct sprocket alignment.

With the exhaust correctly positioned it is then an easy job to count back 28 pins & align the inlet camshaft. Once it's caps are refitted AND the top idler gear & tensioner re-fitted you can them rotate the crankshaft, using the larger nut, very carefully a few turns just to check the timing, (also make sure the spark plugs are removed, it makes turning the engine by hand/spanner easier).
If you feel ANY resistance DO NOT continue, turn it back & check your marks align.

Hi Pete

it seems to me that the timing is correct.
If you want to use the special Kawasaki tool for changing the shims don't forget to remove the gasket from the cylinderhead!
GrtZ
Philippe

Philippe wrote:Hi Pete

it seems to me that the timing is correct.
If you want to use the special Kawasaki tool for changing the shims don't forget to remove the gasket from the cylinderhead!
GrtZ
Philippe

And DON'T turn the engine the wrong way or too far with the tool in place unless you want to throw some money my way to weld the broken piece of head back in place

Cheers Philippe, I just wanted to run it past everyone to make sure it was right. Thanks.
Mark, special tool?? will a GS screwdriver and a block of wood not do?

No worries, when I've checked the clearances I defo WILL use the correct tool if I need different shims
Gap is 0.1mm - 0.15mm inlet and a bit more for exhaust if I recall a previous post??

Pete