It's been a while since I managed to get anything done on the bike, so I said I would do something no matter how small to try get back into it. I replaced a few bearings in the wheels and next I knew I found myself elbow deep into the forks!
The inner and outer bushes don't seem too badly worn but when assembled dry there is the slighted movement or knock when moved laterally. Am I correct in thinking there should be no movement? Also the manual tells us to put the split to the side for the outer bush but does it matter where the slit is on the inner bush? If so I don't know how to keep it there?
Thanks in advance!
P
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Fork Bush replacement
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
Re: Fork Bush replacement
They're 'mothers' to work with....................... apparently
Top standard bushes are available. The bottom bush can be modified if you send ZPower the dimensions they will send the the work-a-round bushes from another model.
Put the slots / slits to the outside on assembly and push home without twisting to leave them there.
Yes there will be a little knock in dry forks. You need 4 'thou inch' to provide an oil cushion so use some modern, fork specific, non foaming product.
Both bushes are fully immersed at all times so knock will pretty much disappear.
Check you have all the bits. The big circlip that holds the seal in is usually rotted and there are some massive flat washers that go with them. Replace the circlips if damaged, and dont buy cheap aftermarket fork seals. Kawasaki superseded the part from the standard forks for a very good reason. Buy K ones from the usual suspects.
If you want to pimp the forks up whilst apart you could have a look at this.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27150
AL
Top standard bushes are available. The bottom bush can be modified if you send ZPower the dimensions they will send the the work-a-round bushes from another model.
Put the slots / slits to the outside on assembly and push home without twisting to leave them there.
Yes there will be a little knock in dry forks. You need 4 'thou inch' to provide an oil cushion so use some modern, fork specific, non foaming product.
Both bushes are fully immersed at all times so knock will pretty much disappear.
Check you have all the bits. The big circlip that holds the seal in is usually rotted and there are some massive flat washers that go with them. Replace the circlips if damaged, and dont buy cheap aftermarket fork seals. Kawasaki superseded the part from the standard forks for a very good reason. Buy K ones from the usual suspects.
If you want to pimp the forks up whilst apart you could have a look at this.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27150
AL
1981 J1
Re: Fork Bush replacement
Thanks Al,
Not sure yet what to do with the bushes, the knock was very slight... but now is the time to replace.
Reading you last comment in the link re: oil viscosity, any suggestions as to which oils is most suitable/consistent. I wont be racing the R but might s well try get it set up as well as possible.
P
Not sure yet what to do with the bushes, the knock was very slight... but now is the time to replace.
Reading you last comment in the link re: oil viscosity, any suggestions as to which oils is most suitable/consistent. I wont be racing the R but might s well try get it set up as well as possible.
P
Re: Fork Bush replacement
Reading you last comment in the link re: oil viscosity, any suggestions as to which oils is most suitable/consistent.
I haven't I'm afraid. I started out using Silkolene because that is what my local bike shop sells, or at least they did. They have become a Yamaha main dealer recently so its all Yamalube now. Just pick one you have ready access to and try and stick with that one.
If the forks will be all standard, perhaps start out with 20W and be prepared to perhaps go a little thicker. If you put emulators in with the standard springs then perhaps be prepared to go a little thinner. Either way, a readily accessible supply that covers that range would be my suggestion.
AL
1981 J1
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