Z1OwnersClub GB

Having a few issues with the 'H' nowadays... Latest is this - starts and warms up nicely, so I'm off out for a ride. Typically after around 15 mins, and a bit of 'spirited' riding, it just cuts out completely. Main fuse, ignition switch, relay, fuelling etc all appear ok. After a few minutes, it will then slowly come to life after plenty of cranking, and I can ride home at a steady pace. I'm thinking a component in the IC igniter is breaking down when it gets hot. Anyone else had similar issues? Martin

Hi Martin

allthough I don't have a Z1000 H myself, I think the problem could be the engine temperature sensor, located in the cylinderhead. The wire connection that got loose or the sensor itself that went defectuous.
Others on here, who have a H themselves, could give you better information to solve your problem.
I hope you can find the problem and fix it. Good luck!
Philippe

Hi Martin,



Find a Trouble Shooting Manual here.

when you say it cuts out completely do you mean all electrics have failed ? does it still turn over ? can you hear the fuel pump ? are the injectors clicking ?

Not had that issue, but it certainly seems like electrical, and Igniter could be breaking down when hot. Most if not all the components in the H injection set up either generally work or don't work!

Thanks all! When it cuts out, it's like you've hit the kill switch. Fuel pump, starter, lights and everything ok. I've now plugged a spare spark plug in one of the HT. leads, and there's no spark. After much cranking I start getting a weak spark and it will then slowly pick up on the 3 other cylinders. Pretty sure it's ignition.
I've had the bike since '86 and know the fuel system pretty well (!) - I'd expect at least some 'faultering' before it cuts if it was fuel.
Anyway - biting the bullet - IC igniter off the Carmo Electronics for 'hot' test and repair. I'll feedback for info if it works (or not)

Thanks!

Martin

PS - I get fuel dripping out of the exhaust header joint while it's cranking...

Lots of people over the years have reported a failure of the CDI that mimics youre own experience. How does the ballast resistor look? Is it brown and crispy looking?
Rather than have the CDI repaired or a new one at something over £800, have you considered a Dyna 'S' replacement. You would need coils too, but it dispenses with the IC igniter, ballast resistor, 6 volt coils combo which 40 years down the road seems like it may not have been the best of ideas' if planning to use it for half a century which looms on the horizon
AL

i wouldn't waste money getting it repaired fit dyna s & it will be a vast improvement on the original electronic ignition

Ok - I'll look into the Dyna S system, although I did replace coils a couple of years ago. Carmo charge £178 for a complete rebuild of the module with all new components into the original casing, which doesn't sound too bad?

Looks like I could fit the Dyna S system along with the new coils I fitted (from Z-power around 2 years ago) if I retain the ballast resistor. Resistor looks ok and measures 2 Ohms. I guess I could ditch the resistor if I upgrade to Dynatek coils in the future?

Or just fit 3ohm coils with no resistor

Check air temperature and engine temperature sensors as described in the manual.

chrisu wrote:Or just fit 3ohm coils with no resistor

Sure thing. Just keen to get some mileage out of the 'new' coils I fitted a couple of years ago!

Sgt.Pinback wrote:Check air temperature and engine temperature sensors as described in the manual.

Yep. Done the EFI stuff to death, but thanks for the suggestion!