Cam Chain Link Options

[Hack]

I know there have been several cam chain posts recently but...

My new DID 219T cam chain has arrived with two different DID links

The link on the right was inside the box with the chain. The plate is an interference fit onto the pins so will require pressing into place. As the pins are not shouldered would need to make sure not to press on too far and end up with a tight link, 9.92mm outside width plate-to-plate seems to be correct. The pin ends are not hollow so not aware of any tool that will create the required flare and would therefore be back to the anvil/ball pein hammer method. Not sure if the pin ends are "softer", in fact, this just appears to be a standard link of the supplied chain that has not been fitted.

The link on the left was supplied loose and is part no. DID 219T, LJ this has shouldered pins so the plate can't go on too far. The ends of the pins are hollow (hole is 1.2mm dia by a similar depth) so a small flare tool would close this link - but I don't have one.

Getting fed up of reading the description of so called cam chain breaking/riveting tools which turn out to just be chain breakers, they include nothing to remake the chain, or they are really designed for drive chains and won't go down to 219T.
I don't need a chain breaker - 1 min with a Dremel and 1 min with a 2.5mm parallel punch has done this - new chain in place and awaiting closing of the master link.

Whilst DID make a chain tool for larger drive chains I can't locate their branded tool for this application (not that I'd be able to justify the cost for one chain).
I contacted DID about a specific tool but they didn't mention one in their reply although they did confirm that the correct flare dimension for the pin head on the link is 3.10 to 3.15mm which is useful to know

Which link to use, and how?
What's the verdict

Thanks, Andy

[Al]

Hi Andy, the hollow pins have a very specific and very narrow 'band' within which 'success' falls. I see you have the dimensions for the flaring width but there is also an angle for the tool that produces it. They may not have told you that if you do this wrong; it is very likely to develope minor radial cracks in which case you have to cut it off and start again with a new one.
By comaprison, the 'soft link' (and thats what they are) is straightforward. The bare ends of the pins are not hard like the main part of the pin further down. However; if you go about it too gently, they will work harden and be more difficult if you use many tiny taps. You need to be confident and three taps per side angle could be target i would guess, two would be better.
If it seems daunting, thank youre lucky stars its not the later Hyvo version,.... now they are really fiddly.
AL

[kev edwards]

As Al says go with the soft link, i have done many like tis and never had any problems.