Gpz1100 clutch removal

[rpeters]

any idea?
So once again the manual doesnt reflect the reality. Any idea hoa the hell I remove the collar, it looks like there are two studs, not threaded holes like in the manual. I can wobble the housing quite a bit so suspect could be a worn bearing??
Any help/advice appreciated!

Rob

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[Al]

Rob you need to remove the tubular 'adaptor sleeve' from the spline shaft first. Its tight but a strong grip or maybe a bit of heat gun and it slides off. The satin black bit with the holes in is one of two spring steel 'washers'. It (the visible one) will just pull off revealing the hardened ground steel inner bearing track which has two 6mm threaded holes in it.
Support the drum and pull the inner track out and the drum can then be angled slightly to 'miss' the inner crankcase casting and withdraw it. The second spring steel 'washer' is behind it.
The drum will rattle / knock / wiggle a bit when its as the picture shows, but when the adaptor sleeve is tightened with the clutch hub in place it limits the 'float' to a great degree.

The amount of end float on the drum (fore and back along the shaft) is governed by the condition and shape of those two spring steel 'washers' They will show annular wear marks at their out edges on the inner faces when you get them out!!!

AL

[rpeters]

THanks Al, I will give it a go later!

Rob

[z1bman]

The bush in the clutch basket is not available as a Separate part only the center collar is available. check the springs in the rear of the basket if you can turn them with your fingers the clutch basket will need reconditioning

[rpeters]

Got it apart, no broken spings. Reassembled it, there is no end float on the basket but it still wobbles on the collar. I took a video but dont know how to post it. i will load it up to facebook and get a link