Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi,
As per title,
I saw on Johnny's Vintage Motorcycles in the US that he had powder coated crankcases in satin black. Looked top notch and far more durable than the paint that I have re-applied over the years. Anyone done this and has any opinions to share?
Thanks.

I've had a couple of engines through my hand 's that were powdered and they didn't last too long before it started to lift and corrode underneath and really eat into the alloy.
I personally wouldn't coat the cases and just stick to using Sperex/Simoniz tough satin paint.
It lasts for many many years if applied correctly.

Fair point Zed, I had similar issues with paint lifting too so must be my poor prep work.
I noticed that Simoniz satin black isn't VHT from my recent search. The VHT version doesn't specify a surface finish. Can anyone enlighten me?
I used flat PJ1 once and it was a bitch to keep clean so want satin this time around.
Cheers

I got mine ceracoated, harder wearing than paint and doesnt make it bulky !ike powder coating. Although the guys that done mine, dont have a specific satin black, the matt I chose, was satin once dry.
Rob

redzee wrote:Fair point Zed, I had similar issues with paint lifting too so must be my poor prep work.
I noticed that Simoniz satin black isn't VHT from my recent search. The VHT version doesn't specify a surface finish. Can anyone enlighten me?
I used flat PJ1 once and it was a bitch to keep clean so want satin this time around.
Cheers

It doesn't need to be VHT for engines.
All i've ever used since PJ1 ruined their formula years ago is Sperex/Simoniz Tough satin which i'm pretty sure used to be Sperex Competion black case paint back in the 80's ..
For a lasting finish the surface needs to be keyed as it does for any successful paint job.
I don't paint complete engines as it's never going to be 100% like that.
I blast etch each individual part then warm the part to sweat out any moisture and then warm the can prior to painting the part while it's still warm.

Simonez tough satin after about 5 years and 10k miles.

Hi Rob,
There is a cerakote company local to me, I intend to investigate that option, cheers.

Zed- The engine will be stripped down once the weather warms up so should be good for cleaning and keying.

Warren - That looks superb, that is exactly the look that I'm after. How did you prep before painting ?

Nothing other than a good degrease and ensure dust free.
Pre heat the metal with a paint stripper gun and pre heat the paint by standing the tin in a bowl of boiling water. No primer required.
It's touch dry in 10mins so be sure to clear the nozzle immediately or you'll be wasting half of every can.

Here is the barrels and crankcase on build up. I also had the head and cam cover done. Has lasted well on the endurance bike

Is the Simons satin petrol resistant?

Resistant, yes after a good heat cycle, Proof no. If left wet with fuel it'll bubble up but if wiped off immediately no problem.

Z1streetfighter71 wrote:Is the Simoniz satin petrol resistant?

I always bake my parts after it's cured overnight and then petrol won't touch it..

zed1015 wrote:

Z1streetfighter71 wrote:Is the Simoniz satin petrol resistant?

I always bake my parts after it's cured overnight and then petrol won't touch it..

Good to know mate, iv been using 2k black but its a bit on the obvious side, that looks smooth and subtle. Thanks for that.

Thanks for all your input guy's.

we haved been experimenting with black finish for Z1 cases.

The best we have found without a doubt is Xylon. It is teflon based, heat, fuel resistant and is bordering on indistructable. It will be more expensive than some paint cansd though.