BS 34's

[gray]

thinking back to your stuck pilot jet , I have 2 suggestions
Both unfortunately involve pulling the carbs off and separating the carbs ( be careful you don't drop the 2 ball bearings on the choke slider bar)
Once you have a stripped down No. 3 carb body in your hand, drop it into boiling water for 5 mins. It won't do it any harm, but it will expand the alloy a bit and might make the pilot jet a bit looser.
The other option is a bit more destructive BUT your'e not cutting anything that passes air or fuel.
Using a mini hacksaw, or a dremel and a thin cutting disc, cut downward into the pilot jet's channel and once you reach the top of the brass pilot jet, go down 1mm more. This then forms a new slot on the pilot jet.
Clean out all the swarf you've made , then use the boiling water trick again and using a slim screwdriver on the new slot you've made, you should get it out.
Worked for me last year.
When you put the new pilot jet in , it will function fine. If you wanted, you could temporarily fit a correct-sized bolt (lightly) down the jet hole and then put the epoxy into the slots you made and then remove the bolt before the epoxy sets. Then it looks like its never been drilled. But that's just cosmetic.
At the end of the day you'll know that , with a new jet in, you can always get it out if you need to. Depends how much peace of mind you like.

[Skid Mark]

thinking back to your stuck pilot jet , I have 2 suggestions
Both unfortunately involve pulling the carbs off and separating the carbs ( be careful you don't drop the 2 ball bearings on the choke slider bar)
Once you have a stripped down No. 3 carb body in your hand, drop it into boiling water for 5 mins. It won't do it any harm, but it will expand the alloy a bit and might make the pilot jet a bit looser.
The other option is a bit more destructive BUT your'e not cutting anything that passes air or fuel.
Using a mini hacksaw, or a dremel and a thin cutting disc, cut downward into the pilot jet's channel and once you reach the top of the brass pilot jet, go down 1mm more. This then forms a new slot on the pilot jet.
Clean out all the swarf you've made , then use the boiling water trick again and using a slim screwdriver on the new slot you've made, you should get it out.
Worked for me last year.
When you put the new pilot jet in , it will function fine. If you wanted, you could temporarily fit a correct-sized bolt (lightly) down the jet hole and then put the epoxy into the slots you made and then remove the bolt before the epoxy sets. Then it looks like its never been drilled. But that's just cosmetic.
At the end of the day you'll know that , with a new jet in, you can always get it out if you need to. Depends how much peace of mind you like.

Thanks Gray,
That makes perfect sense!
I have them on now so will leave for time being, but I will give it serious consideration next time they are out! Thanks for the heads up on the BB, bit lat though! I did find it though

[Skid Mark]

I checked the spark since, however in true ball breaking fashion, the bitch refused not to NOT start!
Every time I touch the starter she fired! I’m sure she will be back to her shananigans as soon as I let my guard down or I’m relying on it, but for now she has a good spark and is running fine, I should be delighted, but I know better.

[Al]

I know! I Have CDO! Its like OCD but in Alphabetical order!!

That made me laugh, thanks.
It may become more compliant the more you use it.
AL

[Skid Mark]

So! Tried start the 1100r yesterday morning and it would not budge!good 10 min and could hear battery starting to die so reconned I’d get the multi meter and plug socket and pretend I know what I was doing.
I didn’t get back to it till this morning but confident it wouldn’t start I was hoping I might at least be able to find a fault even if diagnosis was a bit further off.
I pressed the starter,she turned over twice and roared to life. I was never so pissed that a bike started!
I took out a plug and checked the spark, she instantly fired on three cylinders! Spark looked purple but she was defiantly firing on the other three.
Where do I start looking?!

[Al]

It might be better if it didnt start in some ways. If the IC ignitor is the same on the 1000R you might trying to swop them over and see what you get. Another thing that has tripped me up a couple of times is the earth on the back RHS of the engine. It persists in frothing up and oxidising and that stops the thing more or less completely. It gets a visit every spring for a proper scratch of the ally oxide and a wire brush as my garage has a concrete floor and the bike is dripping wet for two months every year.

Fuses that are broken internally but still in contact too. I only have two now but each time i take it out it gets two new ones no matter what time interval since the last time. I have a big bag of them!! They are cheap and they are shite. Mine are blades and when they break its not always the filament which goes, vibration can snap the legs and they can weld themselves back together!! The contacts on the back of the original fuse holders are also prone to crack where they are rivetted through the plastic. That had me going for quite some time. Starter motor cable was broken half way through inside the insulation and when i removed the plastic the whole thing showed signs of overheating over a long period. The standard cable is barely up to the job and a fine braided one of the same approx, diameter has more copper in it than the coarse strand ones.

I wouldnt attach too much importance to the colour of the sparks when outside the cylinder except to say that it is working. With a twin tower coil, the spark is a merry-go-round, re-energised each time it passes but the cleaver bit is that the coils' spark energy is directed to the point of highest resistance in order to complete that loop. That means that it has the strongest spark alternately each time a plug in the loop comes under compression and a plug ouside the cylinder does not have that restriction placed on it!
This also means that if there is a high resistance in the HT side like a duff plug cap it will focus its energy there to overcome it, depriving the other plug in the circuit.
If you want to see what colour sparks you have you can take out both for each coil and test them under the same conditions.
AL

[Skid Mark]

It might be better if it didnt start in some ways. If the IC ignitor is the same on the 1000R you might trying to swop them over and see what you get. Another thing that has tripped me up a couple of times is the earth on the back RHS of the engine. It persists in frothing up and oxidising and that stops the thing more or less completely. It gets a visit every spring for a proper scratch of the ally oxide and a wire brush as my garage has a concrete floor and the bike is dripping wet for two months every year.

Fuses that are broken internally but still in contact too. I only have two now but each time i take it out it gets two new ones no matter what time interval since the last time. I have a big bag of them!! They are cheap and they are shite. Mine are blades and when they break its not always the filament which goes, vibration can snap the legs and they can weld themselves back together!! The contacts on the back of the original fuse holders are also prone to crack where they are rivetted through the plastic. That had me going for quite some time. Starter motor cable was broken half way through inside the insulation and when i removed the plastic the whole thing showed signs of overheating over a long period. The standard cable is barely up to the job and a fine braided one of the same approx, diameter has more copper in it than the coarse strand ones.

I wouldnt attach too much importance to the colour of the sparks when outside the cylinder except to say that it is working. With a twin tower coil, the spark is a merry-go-round, re-energised each time it passes but the cleaver bit is that the coils' spark energy is directed to the point of highest resistance in order to complete that loop. That means that it has the strongest spark alternately each time a plug in the loop comes under compression and a plug ouside the cylinder does not have that restriction placed on it!
This also means that if there is a high resistance in the HT side like a duff plug cap it will focus its energy there to overcome it, depriving the other plug in the circuit.
If you want to see what colour sparks you have you can take out both for each coil and test them under the same conditions.
AL

A lot of sound advice there Al!
I have already been wondering what I can borrow off the thou and see if it makes a difference. I recon just about all the electronics and even carbs are interchangeable. ( I currently have the thou stater on the unitrac, Atleast I have one bike running( and can use as a valid argument to herself as to why I need so many bikes! :;-))
Because it runs fine when it decides to go at all I’m thinking it must be spark on turn over?
Just where to begin? And I doesn’t look like I’ll get much time to look in the next week or so.

[Skid Mark]

I've been trying to figure out what could be the issue. As once it runs it runs fine so not like an intermittent fault, but it dose affect starting. As I said in a previous post, the bike came with a second body kit. The Blue and Silver, this was actually the original. The R1 colours are not the original. The Green tank which is currently fitted has a non vacum pet cock. ( Possible GPZ 1100 B1-2?) There is no diaphragm and no return pipe from the carbs. Is it possible that she is hard start until there is a significant draw on the fuel in the carbs?
Could it be this that is causing the issue. I know gravity should keep fuel going down to the carbs but there may be something I'm missing. I think the cap is venting ok BTW.
P

[Al]

Manual tap is a better bet in my view. At least it works if the engine isnt running!!!! Assuming it does work as intended.. The vac port on mine is not connected and i just use the PRI position.
AL

[Skid Mark]

Manual tap is a better bet in my view. At least it works if the engine isnt running!!!! Assuming it does work as intended.. The vac port on mine is not connected and i just use the PRI position.
AL

Cheers Al, I was hoping someone would chime in saying that it may be an issue.
She is starting today after a lot of coaxing. Have to wait to see what humour she is in it the morning!
Bit of a theme in my life here!

[Skid Mark]

I'm caught for time and not really getting a run at this, but I put a coil/spark tester on no. 4 (because it was convenient). The spark would only jump across 12mm or so which, if the print on the tester is accurate is less ten 20K volts.is this in the range I should expect? Also the spark does not fire regularly all the time it is as if it is missing or intermittent. However when the bike fired up on three cylinders the spark at the tester then became regular. could it be an issue as previously suggested with current on start up or am I testing this wrong? Any suggestions?